I would swap out the cast 400 crank with a forged 383 crank. All 383’s had forged cranks so any will work. You will also need the 383 balancer. I probably have a good one if you want it.
I would swap out the cast 400 crank with a forged 383 crank. All 383’s had forged cranks so any will work. You will also need the 383 balancer. I probably have a good one if you want it.
There were 383s with cast cranks in 1971.
3462922 383 / 400 2BBL Cast Externally Balanced
That's EXACTLY MY Plan. But if a fellow is content with an external balance torque converter then the nodular iron crank should do well up into the low 6000 rpm range. Even with a forged crank, I don't foresee running my engine(s) over 4000 rpm for any reason, let alone 6k, but I still prefer internal balance and the superior strength of a forged crankshaft. Still, the nodular cast iron cranks used by sundry automotive companies in the 1970s served many folks faithfully. The nodular iron cranks are a bit more flexible than forged ones too. Ford put them in their neutered 335/385 block engines, with economic savings, despite the lost Glory....
DAMN the beancounters!
But if one must count one's own beans, nodular iron will save some.
Looks pretty!This was exactly going to be my question. What advantages would I gain by switching? My current crank is already being turned, no going back on that cost now and I already have everything ready to install. Hell I just cleaned and painted the balancer yesterday. its pretty!
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There were 383s with cast cranks in 1971.
3462922 383 / 400 2BBL Cast Externally Balanced
3672000 400 4BBL Cast Premium Cast Crank
Suitable for mild hop-ups
The 6 pack 440 had an externally balanced cast crank also, due to the heavy connecting rods.
These fellows provide a decent quick reference for casting numbers:
Moparts on the Web - Main Index
They will go 6k repeatedly, and 500hp. I would not sweat it.
This was exactly going to be my question. What advantages would I gain by switching? My current crank is already being turned, no going back on that cost now and I already have everything ready to install. Hell I just cleaned and painted the balancer yesterday. its pretty!
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Well, while I wait for the machine shop, I took out the trans today and dropped it off for a rebuild. $600 for everything.
THAT'S an inexpensive rebuild! Let us pray it isn't CHEEP also.
Who did you send it to , to get re-done...?Well, while I wait for the machine shop, I took out the trans today and dropped it off for a rebuild. $600 for everything.
No reason for them to cost any more than that if you do the R&R. $150 +/- for parts and 2-3 hours labor.
Kevin
Well, while I wait for the machine shop, I took out the trans today and dropped it off for a rebuild. $600 for everything.
Who did you send it to , to get re-done...?