Pistons, Rings and Bearings removed!

Welp, here we are more then 3 months since the start of this. Today I finally have back all parts from my machine shop. I did end up having to buy new pushrods but that's not bad. In-between my last post and this one, I did get the engine painted. I also crudely built a center console for a double din radio and my gauges. I need to clean it up some but it isn't bad.

Now time to start building my engine!

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Ok so I already have a question...

My machine shop said he didn't need to bore this engine as it was within spec. He told me to buy factory size rings, 4.34. I ordered a set of Seal Powered E-318K - Sealed Power E318K Sealed Power Performance Piston Ring Sets | Summit Racing

So today I decided to try them out and see what the ring end gap is. I used a piston with a second ring installed to push down the ring to measure it evenly. I found that the top ring was at .090 on most cylinders. According to what I have found on the intertubes, I should be around 0.021 min?

Anyone have thoughts on this?

1646876707806.png
 
multiplying your bore size by 0.004in will tell you exactly what you should have..
Basically for your motor .021 to .025 would be where you want it ..
You will benefit from checking the piston wall clearance ...

FSM Factory Service Manual is your friend... Buddy up. Bucky.. :)
 
badvs3vil said:
Welp, here we are more then 3 months since the start of this. Today I finally have back all parts from my machine shop. I did end up having to buy new pushrods but that's not bad. In-between my last post and this one, I did get the engine painted. I also crudely built a center console for a double din radio and my gauges. I need to clean it up some but it isn't bad.

Now time to start building my engine!

View attachment 519067View attachment 519068View attachment 519069View attachment 519070View attachment 519071View attachment 519072View attachment 519074View attachment 519075View attachment 519076View attachment 519077
Click to expand...

Please. . . stand your crank up on it's end. You shouldn't let it lay down. It will tend to bend slightly, if you do that.
 
So doing my own checking now. The piston skirts are around 4.37ish

STD bore on a 400 is 4.342..... So that tells me that this is .030 over correct?

Now the question I have, as you can see below, these are Chrysler pistons. However, I cannot find anything using the numbers inside of it. Anyone have any ideas on them?

1646922463503.png


1646922485395.png
 
Or coming back around to one of the first pictures I posted. Now looking at this, does it say .030?

20211204_125848.jpg
 
badvs3vil said:
Ok so I already have a question...

My machine shop said he didn't need to bore this engine as it was within spec. He told me to buy factory size rings, 4.34. I ordered a set of Seal Powered E-318K - Sealed Power E318K Sealed Power Performance Piston Ring Sets | Summit Racing

So today I decided to try them out and see what the ring end gap is. I used a piston with a second ring installed to push down the ring to measure it evenly. I found that the top ring was at .090 on most cylinders. According to what I have found on the intertubes, I should be around 0.021 min?

Anyone have thoughts on this?

View attachment 519373
Click to expand...
The stock spec for compression ring gap is .013 inch to .023 inch. .090 inch is almost 4 times the Max spec. You may get more crank case pressure because of blow-by with the larger gap. Max cylinder bore taper is supposed to be .010 inch. It would be interesting to know what the machinist measured as your taper.

The flipside is if you have the engine cylinders bored, you need to buy new pistons, new rings, and have the crankshaft, pistons, rings, connecting rods balanced. Obviously, this will substantially increase your expense.

At this stage of the game I would probably put it together as is and see how it runs.
 
Last edited:
badvs3vil said:
So doing my own checking now. The piston skirts are around 4.37ish

STD bore on a 400 is 4.342..... So that tells me that this is .030 over correct?

Now the question I have, as you can see below, these are Chrysler pistons. However, I cannot find anything using the numbers inside of it. Anyone have any ideas on them?

View attachment 519423

View attachment 519424
Click to expand...
Looking at the dial caliper, the extensions don't look like they are flush to the piston skirt all the way down. I think you need to recheck your measurement, or go over to your machinist and have him check it. It's the least he can do since your ring gaps are so far off. If you're right in your measurement, maybe you can get away with just new rings.
 
Last edited:
1970FuryConv said:
Looking at the dial caliper, the extensions don't look like they are flush to the piston skirt all the way down. I think you need to recheck your measurement, or go over to your machinist and have him check it. It's the least he can do since your ring gaps are so far off.
Click to expand...
Yeah I did talk to him and he asked me to bring by a couple pistons. I told him I would this weekend. I ordered a micrometer today and also a dial bore gauge. At this point I want to double check everything. I also did find a set of .030 over rings as well and will also have those tomorrow to see.

I did check the crank and those measurements came out perfect, both the rod and main journals.. So I think he may have gotten confused on my std bore size. Esp since the pistons are factory stamped. Is there such a thing as a .030 bore from the factory?? When I took the heads off, it still had a factory head gasket as well. I cant find any information on those pistons anywhere. Also worth noting that the rods were also .010 over when I took it apart and I could tell that by the Chrysler stamped rod bearings that I removed.
 
badvs3vil said:
Yeah I did talk to him and he asked me to bring by a couple pistons. I told him I would this weekend. I ordered a micrometer today and also a dial bore gauge. At this point I want to double check everything. I also did find a set of .030 over rings as well and will also have those tomorrow to see.

I did check the crank and those measurements came out perfect, both the rod and main journals.. So I think he may have gotten confused on my std bore size. Esp since the pistons are factory stamped. Is there such a thing as a .030 bore from the factory?? When I took the heads off, it still had a factory head gasket as well. I cant find any information on those pistons anywhere. Also worth noting that the rods were also .010 over when I took it apart and I could tell that by the Chrysler stamped rod bearings that I removed.
Click to expand...
.030 sounds high to me from the factory.
I would check this stamp pad for any markings
PXL_20210207_002114204 stamping.jpg
 
1970FuryConv said:
If you are facing the block from its right side and you look along the front, you should see the pad and then the hole for the distributor.
Click to expand...
I went through tons of my pictures and found this one after just returning from the shop. I think the issue is that it had bad stamps. Same goes from where the VIN stamp is, cant read it at all, I wanted to know what car this came out of before it landed in mine.

I guess I could take off the paint right here and try and trace over it and see what I come out with. I just tried over the paint and got nothing.

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