Front port goes to rear brakes. Rear port to front brakes.
Rear Brake Trouble
- Thread starter 70NewY’ER
- Start date
rags
Senior Member
thank you. that's the last part of the hydraulics not confirmed. lines to the master cylinder were fabricated with the initial repair and could have been crossed. this is an odd problem and likely to have an odd cause, but bent axles i would not have considered.
70NewY’ER
Member
I took pictures before the original was replaced. Everything matches up perfectly to the original routing from what I can see.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Put car on jack stands. Attach air file sander sandpaper strips to the inside of your drum with spray adhesive. Mount the drums on the car axle inside out. Put car shifter in park. Have a helper turn the opposite side tire while you hold the shoe to the sandpaper inside the drum. Remove sandpaper and adhesive. Repeat for other drum and shoe. Match each shoe set to its respective drum.
Don't do this by yourself while running the car at slow idle like I do.
rags
Senior Member
i get it, but it's down to a last thing as i can tell. it's possible that they could have been done wrong. if they were swapped, it's very possible that would cause this problem. rear brakes working harder to stop the car than the front brakes. when you install your new master you might take a moment to verify that they are correct.
70NewY’ER
Member
Finished installing the master and bleeding the system a few hours ago. I compared the current routing to a picture I took when I first really started working on the car (nothing was done brake system wise). Only major changes were the new lines that the mechanic made. I also made an adjustment to the booster push rod length, just a hair away from the plunger. I'm going to wait until the parking brake cables and brake hardware arrive before I take it on a test drive. Sorry if I sound a little impatient... this fiasco has been wearing me down for about a year haha
You know... I first read this and thought what kind of Scotty Kilmer insanity is this... And then I thought more and it's actually a pretty good idea. The only thing I would be hesitant about would be generating too much dust from asbestos linings.
Kudos for some out of the box thinking!
rags
Senior Member
it's cool. from a professional standpoint, this is an interesting problem. if it turns out to be axles i sure would like to know. better to learn about it here than the hard way in real life.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
It's certainly a concern. Hazard lung protection is called for. I use a good respirator. Same as the guys with the fancy dancey arching machine. Do they actually use any protection?
This works better than the machine. And don't buy new asbestos lining.
Thank you.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
The last time I had that problem on a single brake it was caused by a defective wheel cylinder. The cylinder was not machined large enough and it also had burrs in it.
A new set of cylinders is in order.
rags
Senior Member
anything replaced in that initial repair would be suspect. you make a great point.
This is what I think is your problem...
You know... If you look at the wheel cylinders, they look like the cheap offshore versions.
The last time I did this, I found some NORS cylinders on eBay. Same exact cylinders as NOS Mopar with identical casting numbers, but much cheaper than NOS replacements. I did disassemble them and check the rubber though.
70NewY’ER
Member
It’s been a while everyone. I recently replaced the rear parking brake cables and adjusted them. Readjusted all of the wheels. Took it for a test drive and all of the wheels except the passenger rear averaged at about 235-240 degrees F. The passenger rear measured about 430 degrees F. I’ll have to back off the adjustment on that wheel and see if that works. If I can get all of the wheels at around 240 degrees F or less, I’ll be in the clear.
70NewY’ER
Member
So I found out something interesting. The rear passenger parking brake cable isn't fully disengaging. I think that's what was causing the high temp in that wheel. The spring that is responsible for holding tension on the cable wasn't made long enough, so it isn't returning it all the way. The cable itself is also quite a bit shorter than the original. No noticeable problems with the driver side cable. I'm thinking of buying an oem cable for the passenger side and see if that helps. Any suggestions on brands for cables? The ones I got are Raybestos.
rags
Senior Member
if the spreader bar isn't pressing on the primary shoe and both shoes are resting on the stop, then the parking brake is effectively released. at least you have the temp. issue isolated to the one corner. that would eliminate a lot of stuff. in previous posts you indicated that that corner was higher than the others. have you given any consideration to it possibly being the wheel cylinder as pointed out earlier? in this picture, the park brake lever is released. the spreader bar is just touching the primary shoe at the left end. shoes are on the stop.
This is driving me a little crazy.... I know, it's a short drive and just as easy to walk there.
Please take 5 seconds with a pair of channel locks and squeeze the spring ends so they aren't spread like that.
Please take 5 seconds with a pair of channel locks and squeeze the spring ends so they aren't spread like that.
70NewY’ER
Member
I thought about the wheel cylinders. I noticed that these new ones are actually leaking a tiny bit. I will have to replace them again. Maybe I under adjusted the shoes and they pushed themselves out too far? The push bars (as far as I know) should be the original ones. I ended up finding an oem parking brake cable that looked to be in really good shape so I'll replace the current one with that one and see if that helps.
70NewY’ER
Member
Yeah they're looking a little rough haha. I have new hardware for both sides that I'm going to install once I replace the parking brake cable.
rags
Senior Member
just wondering why there is such a difference from side to side. without actually seeing it i couldn't say that it's causing a problem. if the bar is too short, there is the remote possibilty that it could cause the lever to hang up on the secondary shoe. you can check the action when the new cable is installed. finish connecting it to the lever in the drum and pull on the cable end by hand before connecting the housing at the chassis. good oem is the way to go. new aftermarket are generally junk.
they shouldn't leak. if you peel the boots back and have any fluid drip out, they're junk. thanks for keeping us updated. it'll be interesting to see what finally resolves this.
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