Reverse light switch.

I’m going to try and install this tomorrow as the pin that was in there has vanished. What gear shift position do you put the transmission in for installation?
I will try the method using a pair of channel locks, but want to know what gear position is optimal.
 
You may have to try a few to find what best works for you. If I recall, the switch is going to be in your way so you may need to remove it to get more room. Then you will need the manual for easy re-adjustment. Certain size drill bit in the alignment hole. Position the gear selector and tighten the switch.
 
You may have to try a few to find what best works for you. If I recall, the switch is going to be in your way so you may need to remove it to get more room. Then you will need the manual for easy re-adjustment. Certain size drill bit in the alignment hole. Position the gear selector and tighten the switch.
Switch is already out. I sprayed it with contact cleaner and will reinstall afterwards.

What’s the reference to a drill bit about?

I don’t see any need for that at all.

Confused 8^~
 
I guess I don’t know your year, but on 68 there is a little indexing hole that helps with getting the switch in the correct adjusted position. My switch has slots so it can have a fair amount of adjustment. There’s an index hole in the switch. You slide the switch lever to align it with the index hole and insert a small rod to hold it against the spring. (I use a drill bit as the rod). Then you put the switch in position to where the steering column lever (that you are replacing) is in contact with the lever and tighten the bolts. Remove the pin or drill bit and your switch will be properly positioned and your reverse lights will work.
 
I guess I don’t know your year, but on 68 there is a little indexing hole that helps with getting the switch in the correct adjusted position. My switch has slots so it can have a fair amount of adjustment. There’s an index hole in the switch. You slide the switch lever to align it with the index hole and insert a small rod to hold it against the spring. (I use a drill bit as the rod). Then you put the switch in position to where the steering column lever (that you are replacing) is in contact with the lever and tighten the bolts. Remove the pin or drill bit and your switch will be properly positioned and your reverse lights will work.
My vehicle (Elwood) is a 68.

Thanks for the tip and I didn’t know about the alignment pin/hole.
 
I figured it out and got it done. Drill bit goes in the switch, bolt it on, with transmission in reverse. Slide switch to bump against the tab, tighten switch mounting bolts and check.

I had to use a large C clamp to get the part pressed into the steering column. Other than that, it went well.

Thanks all for your knowledge and sharing!

IMG_2002.jpeg
IMG_2003.jpeg
IMG_2004.jpeg
 
Sweet!! Great job. And thanks for posting those pics. It’ll help with others who come across this thread.
 
I'm working on a 1968 Imperial and trying to get the reverse switch to work. Is the arm with the spring supposed to under tension? I can move the arm but it doesn't move on its own- is it supposed to? As I play with it it seems that the arm should push to the right - toward passenger side - mine stays wherever you put it. See pictures - arm stays where you put it

IMG_2887.JPG


IMG_2888.JPG


IMG_2889.JPG
 
I'm working on a 1968 Imperial and trying to get the reverse switch to work. Is the arm with the spring supposed to under tension? I can move the arm but it doesn't move on its own- is it supposed to? As I play with it it seems that the arm should push to the right - toward passenger side - mine stays wherever you put it. See pictures - arm stays where you put it

View attachment 679198

View attachment 679199

View attachment 679200
There’s a peg in the steering column that pushes on the tab protruding out of the switch.
The switch tab should return to one side and the contacts make a connection when it is partway moved, when it’s aligned that is reverse.
 
Is spring loaded. Should always return to one side. You may be able to take it apart and clean or fix, but likely need a new switch. That one almost looks like it got good and hot and partially melted.
 
I'm thinking that is the issue - spring not connected - I need a view of the other side of the switch as it looks like there is a peg that broke off that the coil spring connected to. Does anyone have a good picture of both sides? MoparMall has a used switch for $300 PN 2857486 vacuum valve/reverse lamp switch releases the parking brake when car is taken out of ''Park'' and activates the back-up lights. Does anyone make a replacement?
I got your message. I can get you some pics in the morning.
There are no reproductions available. Only options are good used or NOS.
 
About what size drill bit did you use ?

"I figured it out and got it done. Drill bit goes in the switch, bolt it on, with transmission in reverse. Slide switch to bump against the tab, tighten switch mounting bolts and check."
 
About what size drill bit did you use ?

"I figured it out and got it done. Drill bit goes in the switch, bolt it on, with transmission in reverse. Slide switch to bump against the tab, tighten switch mounting bolts and check."
I believe it says in the factory service manual.
 
@Dartman67
The first pic shows where the pin broke off probably same as yours. The other 2 pics show a good used switch which is not for sale.
@garyh the FSM says #42 drill.

IMG_8314.jpeg
IMG_8313.jpeg
IMG_8312.jpeg
 
Thank for the quick feedback and pics very helpful! My tab is broken where the spring connects to the arm. Has anyone ever tried to repair a missing tab? I'm now in the market for a switch I saw that MoparMall has a used one ($300) are there any other sources people can recommend?
 
Drill bit size is 3/32” - a nice snug fit.this business card was in the box when I received the switch. Maybe he can help you out too.

Here’s pics of the switch:

IMG_2137.jpeg
IMG_2136.jpeg
IMG_2135.jpeg
 
Back
Top