65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
If you remove the bolt can you feed the chain up into the boom of the picker and reinstall the bolt?
The Bluesmobile
- Thread starter monaco75
- Start date
monaco75
Senior Member
No, there is a slot the chain goes through in the boom to the bolt. The slot is only big enough for 1 loop of the chain.
monaco75
Senior Member
Doing a little detailing under the hood. A few before pics-
Modified the driver side mount, per the instruction in the shumacher conversion kit. The mounts are all the same on these year bodies (A, B, C's) but are in diff locations. The new hole is low. Won't be able to use the washers with the bolts as seen. Probably have to grind one side of the nut down to fit properly too.
Cleaned, and sprayed some new undercoating on the lower half of the fire wall. Also touched up the top half in a few spots. Frame is next. Lots of caked on gunk to remove.
I got the steering gear removed, but can't seem to get the shaft off the gear. Manual says there is a pin in the hole holding it on, but I don't see a pin.. Anyone have any info?
Also, what do you guys recomend to bring life back to rubber? The dust shields are still in decent shape, but dry, and close to cracking. Been hearing of this stuff called sil-glide. Stuff any good?
Modified the driver side mount, per the instruction in the shumacher conversion kit. The mounts are all the same on these year bodies (A, B, C's) but are in diff locations. The new hole is low. Won't be able to use the washers with the bolts as seen. Probably have to grind one side of the nut down to fit properly too.
Cleaned, and sprayed some new undercoating on the lower half of the fire wall. Also touched up the top half in a few spots. Frame is next. Lots of caked on gunk to remove.
I got the steering gear removed, but can't seem to get the shaft off the gear. Manual says there is a pin in the hole holding it on, but I don't see a pin.. Anyone have any info?
Also, what do you guys recomend to bring life back to rubber? The dust shields are still in decent shape, but dry, and close to cracking. Been hearing of this stuff called sil-glide. Stuff any good?
monaco75
Senior Member
That makes tons more sense now. The book made it look more like a solid pin that went through the hole on the coupling. I could see clear through the hole, so was thinking maybe I'm missing the pin, and it was just rusted together.
No pin drivers here. Might take it to work, and see if we can get it out.
Thanks!!
No pin drivers here. Might take it to work, and see if we can get it out.
Thanks!!
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Sil-glide is a silicone based lube usually used during brake service. It wont make the O-rings or seals swell. I have never used it to rejuvenate rubber products
LOL
love this
love this
No experience with it... But GM was recommending dielectric grease for the trouble prone Corvette weatherstrip. I don't think it will rejuvenate them, but it might keep them from getting worse.
monaco75
Senior Member
Thanks! Have the correct cigg packs up there, along with correct Budweiser can. Need another one though. Also have the correct 8 track too, but sun started to warp it lol
Sounds good to me. There was a video of a guy using it on his old trunk seal, and seemed to being it back a bit. As long as it keeps it from getting worse.
Got the pin out, but ended up busting the coupler seal. Ugh.. Ordered a coupler rebuild kit.
You may want to consider one of those spring clips on ebag too.
I have a lot of old beer cans. PM me what the one you need looks like. Is it aluminum or steel?
monaco75
Senior Member
Which spring is that?
Sweet!! Ill get with you after work. Can is aluminum. Thanks!
Good chance I may have one as I was collecting beer cans in late 70's up through about 81.
65Fury440
Senior Member
Haha that dash is cool!!
SilGlide is a dielectric grease. It is a commonly available product from auto parts and hardware stores... If you're a freak like me about it, you use separate tubes for brake and electrical work just to keep the dust out of electrical stuff.
monaco75
Senior Member
Holy hell! What a pain in the *** that was! Nothing wanted to come apart. I broke one of the t bar adjusting bolts, as well as every single cotter pin. One of the sway bar bolts broke too, had to drill it out.The ball joints won't budge. Had to take the contol arms, and knuckles off as a unit. Gonna drop em off at a shop to get seperated. Had to cut the shocks out with a cut off wheel.
The t bars came out with really no fit for some reason lol. The bad thing is non of the stuff is in that bad of shape. Only 2 boots were iffy. All the joints still seemed good, besides being rusty as hell. The control arm bushings are shot though.
The transmission linkage shield rusted in half. Had to cut out the remains of it. Needle scalled the frame, and cleaned it. Then layed some paint down. Looking much better!
One of the supports that runs to the core support has a little rot. The bolts don't want to budge, and my patience for rust is dwindling so I left it lol. Its still pretty solid though.
The t bars came out with really no fit for some reason lol. The bad thing is non of the stuff is in that bad of shape. Only 2 boots were iffy. All the joints still seemed good, besides being rusty as hell. The control arm bushings are shot though.
The transmission linkage shield rusted in half. Had to cut out the remains of it. Needle scalled the frame, and cleaned it. Then layed some paint down. Looking much better!
One of the supports that runs to the core support has a little rot. The bolts don't want to budge, and my patience for rust is dwindling so I left it lol. Its still pretty solid though.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Tell me about it...
Been busy, huh? Really looking good... how much is left after this goes back?Holy hell! What a pain in the *** that was! Nothing wanted to come apart. I broke one of the t bar adjusting bolts, as well as every single cotter pin. One of the sway bar bolts broke too, had to drill it out.The ball joints won't budge. Had to take the contol arms, and knuckles off as a unit. Gonna drop em off at a shop to get seperated. Had to cut the shocks out with a cut off wheel.
The t bars came out with really no fit for some reason lol. The bad thing is non of the stuff is in that bad of shape. Only 2 boots were iffy. All the joints still seemed good, besides being rusty as hell. The control arm bushings are shot though.
The transmission linkage shield rusted in half. Had to cut out the remains of it. Needle scalled the frame, and cleaned it. Then layed some paint down. Looking much better!
One of the supports that runs to the core support has a little rot. The bolts don't want to budge, and my patience for rust is dwindling so I left it lol. Its still pretty solid though.
monaco75
Senior Member
I s#it my pants when the adjuster bolt broke. Thought to myself I'm screwed...
What really pissed me of wwre the shocks though. Nut rusted in place, and spinning the whole shock. Ugh!
Will t bar adjusters, and bolts from other cars work in formals?
Get suspension back together, then get the 440 dropped in. BB trans needs rebuilt and installed. Then exhaust. Getting there!
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Don't know myself. You'll have to do the ol p/n thingie...
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