Trans fluid .
- Thread starter carguy300
- Start date
It's a couple bolts to remove the cover and a pipe plug. The only challenge being getting it to the right position.
I got to the plug easy but never got it out.
Had the converter on the bench and the plug broke off. I bought a new converter.
Your experience is not typical. Someone overtightened or cross threaded the plug. I sometimes think most of the work I do on my old cars is fixing something somebody f'ed up in the past.
That said, I've never had a problem, never heard of that problem.
Just Carbs
Well-Known Member
Napa just canceled my last order made on 11/24/24. Must be all gone. Bummer.
I use ATF+4
Detroit_Lives
Member
The last time I flushed a transmission, just because it had a ton of miles, I lost reverse, slipping bad. Had no problems before the flush. Afterwards I asked around and heard the same thing from more than one source: You should not flush the fluid, reason because all the by products of all those miles are helping to create friction needed. The fresh clean fluid doesn't perform well in a "worn" transmission. The result is slipping / slippage. I like to keep fluids clean and fresh in my vehicles and machinery. I don't know if there's any merit to the theory or not but I'v never had a auto. trans slip until I changed the fluid. It wasn't a 727 either it was a 2018 chevy v6 trans. I read thru the thread wondering if there would be any mention of that theory, which is what I'm calling it. I don't know jack about transmissions, I know a little about hydraulics and I know enough to run correct, clean oil via quality filter, etc. Has anyone ever heard of the theory "don't change the fluid" aka "clean fluid=slippage w/ high miles"
carguy300
Well-Known Member
I have not heard of any torqueflites doing this but a Th 350 and a Th 400 doing that after fluid change.
Detroit_Lives
Member
that figures...GM... nothing but trouble with the GM stuff
Gerald Morris
Senior Member
My 1966 727 was running on naught but dirty fluid, Type F fluid and Lucas for the first couple years I ran it. When I finally had it rebuilt, the old guy who did it showed me the clutches. THERE WAS NO PADDING LEFT!! We surmised that the only thing which enabled the things to grip was all the crap in the fluid. They cleaned it all up, installed new clutches, replaced a band, used the modest shift kit I found, advised me that the pump chamber is worn to the point that this should be the LAST rebuild, and filled it w Castrol Transmax. That was 6 yrs ago, and it behaves nicely enough. I have a 1968 727, and a 1977 one, so I don't worry. I know the '68 worked fine when we got Gertrude in 2021.
That may be true, but I've seen it more as "a flush just reveals any problems that may have been previously unknown" - if problems appear right after a flush, it was more than likely that the gearbox was already on its way out and the old fluid was just the duct tape holding everything together.
It's like that whole "synthetic oil causes leaks" meme, it doesn't cause leaks, it merely reveals them.
wyrmrider
Member
GM no longer regulates DEX III but you can get similar with an Allison spec
it' the wild west with DEX III so only get brand name stuff
that said DEX III is way obsolete
+4 is semi synthetic and a much better base fluid
That said
CITGO Quatrosyn is the best fluid you can get
no modifiers so it CANNOT shear down and best of any hot and cold performance and longest life
it' the wild west with DEX III so only get brand name stuff
that said DEX III is way obsolete
+4 is semi synthetic and a much better base fluid
That said
CITGO Quatrosyn is the best fluid you can get
no modifiers so it CANNOT shear down and best of any hot and cold performance and longest life
jmopar360
New Member
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I just saw this today, i put Mobil1 synthetic in a 727 10 years ago.. new filter, band adjustment… never had a hiccup..
I did use Valvoline...
One of my cars the tranny was rebuilt before I bought it and it seemed to shift firmer than expected and assumed maybe there was Type F. Definitely shifts softened now with Dex III but never heard of the Citgo..
The other trans is original 120K so I will just stick with the obsolete stuff in that one...
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I have to chime in on fluid... Manyyears ago I was the product line manager at Mopar Parts Div. for fluids and chemicals. This was when the ATF+ fluids were first introduced; the synthetic was needed to manage shudder in the newer lockup transmissions. I quizzed the engineers on backwards compatibility and they told me that the new fluids would work all the way back to the old Type A fluids. They were concerned with dealers missapplying fluids and causing failures so compatibility was engineered in.
Also, Ron Mancini ("Zoomo", Chrysler engineer and Ramchargers member) (RIP Ron) told me to use Type F for firmer shifts in older 727 and A 466 trans. His racing specialty was transmissions so he knew his stuff. He also preached religously draining and flushing the converter and COOLER if you are doing a rebuild of a failed (metal shavings) transmission. You can buy spray flush kits for the cooler.
Hope this helps.
Mark
Also, Ron Mancini ("Zoomo", Chrysler engineer and Ramchargers member) (RIP Ron) told me to use Type F for firmer shifts in older 727 and A 466 trans. His racing specialty was transmissions so he knew his stuff. He also preached religously draining and flushing the converter and COOLER if you are doing a rebuild of a failed (metal shavings) transmission. You can buy spray flush kits for the cooler.
Hope this helps.
Mark
300George
Member
Agree on the Type F usage. Worked with Ron for years dyno testing engines and transmissions and yes, Ron knew his stuff! My 300J has had Type F in it for years and no issues.
In the old Usenet BBS for Chrysler that Dr. Zatz used to run, in the "FAQs" section, there was a section on ATF. At the time, the +3 was as far as Chrysler had progressed.
In respect to Dexron III ATF, he noted that it started to sheer at about 40K miles. I kind of questioned that as GM touted it as "Lifetime" as to fluid changes. But then, in those earlier times, WE knew to change ATF when it changed colors toward the brown color from red. Plus the burnt smell was an indicator too.
Seems like, at that time, +3 was a semi-syn fluid, with enough friction modifiers to control the torque converter "apply" issues. Something about the fluid being less expensive and lasting almost as long as a full-syn fluid and a concern about earlier-model seal compatibility with full-syn ATF. I guess they got that last part figured out with +4 ATF as GM did with their fully-backward compatible Dex VI.
We used o kind of term the Type F ATF as "shift kit in a can". B&M marketed their "Trick Shift" ATF (with a blue dye in it) with similar attributes back then.
FWIW, Ford has not licensed Type F for ages (40+ years), since they came out with their "Mercon" fluid family.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
In respect to Dexron III ATF, he noted that it started to sheer at about 40K miles. I kind of questioned that as GM touted it as "Lifetime" as to fluid changes. But then, in those earlier times, WE knew to change ATF when it changed colors toward the brown color from red. Plus the burnt smell was an indicator too.
Seems like, at that time, +3 was a semi-syn fluid, with enough friction modifiers to control the torque converter "apply" issues. Something about the fluid being less expensive and lasting almost as long as a full-syn fluid and a concern about earlier-model seal compatibility with full-syn ATF. I guess they got that last part figured out with +4 ATF as GM did with their fully-backward compatible Dex VI.
We used o kind of term the Type F ATF as "shift kit in a can". B&M marketed their "Trick Shift" ATF (with a blue dye in it) with similar attributes back then.
FWIW, Ford has not licensed Type F for ages (40+ years), since they came out with their "Mercon" fluid family.
Enjoy!
CBODY67
3175375
Senior Member
I’m running type F in my Mopars
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