1959 Dodge Coronet - need a better 2 barrel carb

WikedPlymouth

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My 1959 Dodge Coronet has a a 2 barrel Stromberg WW carb on it. About 6 months ago I rebuilt the carb but have had some problems with it. Just this past weekend I tried to run the car but could not get it too idle. There was a strong smell of fuel and lots of exhaust smoke. I then noticed the carb was leak fuel all over the intake manifold and making a big mess. I would swap to a 4 barrel but the car does run good on the 2 barrel setup.

My question, does anyone know of any good/new replacement 2 barrel carbs that would bolt on? Any recommendations would be appreciated.
 
Should be a Carter BBD 2bbl that will work, provided the base plate bolt pattern and the air cleaner mount hole are the same size. Wingnut under the air cleaner?

Does your throttle pull the throttle open (as later models do) or push it open? That issue can be worked-around, though, as @Sir Dodge alot did with his 4bbl upgrade.

As for "the leak", is it coming from an externally sealed ball bearing area? With the bearing/seal held in place with "solder" and bent tabs? If so, it can be re-sealed with a good gasoline-resistant sealer, as J-B Weld, I suspect. Ethanol'd fuels degrade the solder, over time.

Just some thoughts,
CBODY67
 
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Will have to check some more to see. There was just fuel pooling on both sides of the carb in the intake valleys. The carb is a throttle pull style. The engine is the stock size 326 Red Ram V8. There is a wing nut to remove the air cleaner lid for the air filter access. The actual air cleaner assembly is held on by a clamp around the carb under the housing.

Finished engine passenger.jpg
 
Thanks for those confirmations. Just a normal Poly A motor family item, it appears.
 
So just a Carter BBD 2 barrel should work? Any specific place to buy one? Thanks.
A parts wanted ad here may get you what you need. Yours could be fixed I'm sure. It may need a floa or a chunk of something is stuck under the needle. It is bleeding over it seems.
 
About the only thing that can't be fixed on a Stromberg WW carb with simple tools in the throttle shaft bushings.
Disable your ignition and crank it with a starter button to see where it's leaking.
I would also remove the top of the carb to see what the float/fuel bowl is doing.

At one time Mikes Carbs had a phone number for a gentleman who can re-bush the throttle shaft.
Send him the lower part of your carb minus the adjustment screws and a check and he'll re-bush it.

Last time I used him it was over $100.00, don't remember exactly, and was very happy with his work.
 
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I just remembered, I gave you some incorrect information above.
It's the THROTTLE SHAFT that wears on the throttle linkage side of the carb.
What he does is re-bush with a longer bushing on the linkage side, there is enough room on the exposed shaft, so the shaft is rotating on an unworn part in the new bushing.
 
Thanks for the comments. Yesterday I pulled all the plugs to air out the cylinders. I also used fogging oil to make sure the cylinders/walls are good. Will do an oil/filter change to be safe. Will also probably replace the spark plugs as they smell like fuel. I did notice that the Dorman inline fuel filter I was using between the pump and carb had some tiny rust particles in it. I've used these filters for many years in other cars and never had a problem, but they all had new tanks (this car did not - but the tank was super clean inside). Decided to switch to a Wix 33003 filter as it looks like it has a better filter and should do a better job filtering the fuel. Will also pull the carb and clean it out. Hopefully that fixes this issue.
 
It's kind of a pain in the *** but you might consider running a filter right before the fuel pump as well at least for awhile. Did you pull the fuel tank? There should be a slip on sock filter on the end of the sending unit pick up I think as early as 59.. It's plastic so if its very old it may be rotted and allowing particulates through. They are available and cheap but obviously the work involved is dropping the tank..
 
The tank might be clean, but the lines can be internally rusty. Which is why the pore-pump filter can be needed. An extra layer of protection. Just need to raise the front end of the car when putting one on or changing it.

CBODY67
 
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