1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

[Wollfen]

That all sounds cool Ben, it also sounds like it is a car that only has minor issues to be sorted to having a nice driver. I have found extra issues in the Nissan, fuel pump is kerflucked in it and it is an internal gas tank unit. Oh joy. I have yet to have the damned thing running.
Oh on another note, the bumpers on the front of your car will be the same as what is found on the hideaway unit car.

 

[oliver]

Ben, is the paint code "GY8"?
Thanks

 

[DeltaV]

Hi Gary. I like the car a lot too! I really was bound and and determined not to buy another project, but this car had my name on it. And it was one of those rare instances where the owner is obviously honest and straightforward. I also like the idea of driving the car down to North Carolina. I could bring the door panels and quarter panels with me, which would take care of the delivery issue.

As I told Oliver, I’m dealing with a carburetor that was put on the car and hooked up to fuel, but basically nothing else was done. Once I’ve got that and taillights, I can legally drive the car during the day. For night driving, the headlights are blinking on and off. The system has a short to ground from the bright side of the headlight wiring. I’ve tested all the grounds in the engine compartment and pulled the bulkhead connector to test the wiring for continuity and shorts in the engine compartment. Unfortunately, that’s all good, so the short to ground is either in the headlight switch or under the dash. I’ve also tested the headlight floor dimmer switch and its connector. No problem there. I’m betting on the headlight switch. Anyway, will have to see whether I finished the Fury first or you finish the Nissan first.

I pm'd the owner of the car, regarding the hideaway headlights. Thanks for the nudge there. Will need to see what Troy does. Sounds like he's having a rough time.

I had a similar problem with '71 & '72 Plymouths and it was the headlights switch.

The only problem that I ever had with a foot dimmer switch is that it stopped working...no high beam.

 

[Analog Kid]

Nice Car!

I think I remember this same car for sale back in 2016. I believe it was originally from Oregon and owned by a college student who drove it out to Indiana.

 

[1970FuryConv]

That all sounds cool Ben, it also sounds like it is a car that only has minor issues to be sorted to having a nice driver. I have found extra issues in the Nissan, fuel pump is kerflucked in it and it is an internal gas tank unit. Oh joy. I have yet to have the damned thing running.
Oh on another note, the bumpers on the front of your car will be the same as what is found on the hideaway unit car.

Troy said the same thing about the bumper. I’m in touch with him by email. Just need to decide what I’m gonna do. His underdash panel is cracked front to back. It’s also green, and I turned it down. His taillight lenses could be useful, but I found NOS LH for $59 on eBay and ordered that. My RH is pretty good. I really need to think about the headlights and whether I want to spring for hideaway.

BTW, if it were my car, at this point, I would’ve said Kerfluck the Nissan. OTOH, I have a Chrysler Concorde that has been such a problem at points that I literally wanted to attack it with a sledgehammer. Still have the car. Maybe we have inner self persecution complexes and work them out with cars that are front-wheel-drive and have no room for any mechanical work to be done?

 

[1970FuryConv]

Nice Car! I think I remember this same car for sale back in 2016. I believe it was originally from Oregon and owned by a college student who drove it out to Indiana.

Hi Analog Kid. That’s interesting. Where did you see the car for sale? On this website, Craigslist? Would love to be able to find the original ad. Oregon would explain why there is so little undercarriage rust. Otherwise, someone in Indiana would’ve had to have this car in a garage and have either driven it only in summer or power washed the chassis on a regular basis. The college student part doesn’t fit very well with the rebuilt engine. I do know the previous owner bought the car in November 2016. At some point recently, it may have had overheating and some problems with the original 2 barrel carburetor, so the person installed a water pump, Edelbrock 4 barrel intake, & an Edelbrock 1406 carburetor. The person must have gotten sick of the project, because after install, the person left the anti-freeze a gallon low, didn’t hook up the electric choke, attached the throttle cable to the carburetor linkage with a plastic wire tie, and left the kickdown linkage lying beside the valve cover. Maybe that does fit a, a college student, because the person doesn’t seem to have known what he was doing. Anyway would love to see the original ad if you can point me to it. Thanks Ben

 

[1970FuryConv]

Some carb linkage work. Choke and linkage now operational with fabricated bracket to move throttle cable mount forward. My cost several hours, $0.00. Full throttle blade opening. Full kickdown travel. Maybe this helps someone with a similar problem and enough left over clips, scrap metal, and bolts/nuts to solve the problem. On to the rear brake lights and turn signal lights. Getting closer to a legal test drive.

 

[Wollfen]

Looking good Ben, just a quick note, that pivot bracket bolted on by a 7/16 nut to the end of the kick down arm is upside down and back to front, easy five min fix though.

 

[furyusvip]

Either way...great find! I had a 72 Fury III in the mid 90's!

 

[Analog Kid]

Hi Analog Kid. That’s interesting. Where did you see the car for sale? On this website, Craigslist?

I saw it on Chicago Craigslist back in November of 2016. It was located in Valparaiso, IN and was priced at $4500. I have a brother that lives in Indiana and he was going to go look at it for me but then the ad disappeared. Unfortunately I didn't save a copy of the ad and I went back and looked through the listings on this site and it doesn't look like anyone posted it. Here was the link although now it doesn't go anywhere since the ad has been deleted.

http://chicago.craigslist.org/nwi/cto/5860344700.html

 

[1970FuryConv]

Hi Analog Kid.
That fits because the last registered owner before the golfer bought the car in Nov 2016. I have written him to try to see if I can get info on the car's history. If he replies, I'll post the info here.
Ben

 

[1970FuryConv]

Looking good Ben, just a quick note, that pivot bracket bolted on by a 7/16 nut to the end of the kick down arm is upside down and back to front, easy five min fix though.

Good point Gary. I had thought to leave the kickdown linkage in stock position, so I didn’t change the position of the adjuster and created a 2nd adjuster on the end of the front slotted arm. But, if I switched that bracket, so that the adjusting screw head was upward, I could see if I could use the adjustment to create even more clearance in front of the fabricated throttle bracket.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Taillights: my right side brake lights don’t work, and my left outside turn signal, brake, tail lamp bulb is very dim. I have a 1970 Fury, so when I opened the 1972 Fury trunk, I expected to see the wiring along the rear edge of the trunk. Imagine my surprise when I saw that it went through a grommet at the left outside of the trunk and then one wire came out through a grommet for the side marker light at the right outside of the trunk.

Because of a tiny gap between the valence below the bumper and the rear edge of the frame, the wiring is mostly out of reach. In addition, from removing new black tape on the wiring behind the gas door, I found a large pink wire that doesn’t belong there at least by wiring diagram. The factory shop manual says that the bumper has to be removed to access the wiring.

Questions:
1) Does the bumper have to be removed? If so, do you have any hints or pictures for removing it?
2) If not, how can I get to the wiring? As always thanks for your help

Point of Disappearance. Maybe, I'll get lucky and find the problem where the black tape starts. Otherwise: long day ahead.

Can Work From FSM, but Experience/Actual Pictures are still a great help

 

[Wollfen]

I don't know about whether the wiring can be accessed or not without the bumper being removed but with regard taking the bumper off, four bolts underneath on the chassis rails and four bolts in the trunk area, two in each corner. Very similar to the 1970 vehicle.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Ben, is the paint code "GY8"?
Thanks

Short Answer: Yes. Fender Tag and Decode Below. I used Galen Govier's Decode Book. If I made a mistake, you can let me know.

1st Row
E57 360 @BBL 255HP, 8.8 Compression Ratio
D34 Std Duty Auto Trans
PH23 Plymouth High Price Class 2-Door HT
K2D 360 1972 Belvidere IL
289128 Sequence#
2nd Row
GY8 Gold Metallic
D4Y5 D=Deluxe 4=Split vinyl seat with center armrest Y5=Medium Gold (looks like they changed my seat color/door panel color. Not bad though)
519 May 19 1972 production date
195758 Order#
3rd Row
GY8 Gold Metallic Roof
U 15 Inch Tires (Has Disc Brakes, so this fits. Not sure why no brake code)
L25 Trunk Compartment Lamp
R11 Radio AM Music Master
V5Y Protective Moldings
Y14 Sold Car (I guess this means someone ordered it, so not for dealer stock)

 

[oliver]

Short Answer: Yes. Fender Tag and Decode Below. I used Galen Govier's Decode Book. If I made a mistake, you can let me know.
View attachment 164833
1st Row
E57 360 @BBL 255HP, 8.8 Compression Ratio
D34 Std Duty Auto Trans
PH23 Plymouth High Price Class 2-Door HT
K2D 360 1972 Belvidere IL
289128 Sequence#
2nd Row
GY8 Gold Metallic
D4Y5 D=Deluxe 4=Split vinyl seat with center armrest Y5=Medium Gold (looks like they changed my seat color/door panel color. Not bad though)
519 May 19 1972 production date
195758 Order#
3rd Row
GY8 Gold Metallic Roof
U 15 Inch Tires (Has Disc Brakes, so this fits. Not sure why no brake code)
L25 Trunk Compartment Lamp
R11 Radio AM Music Master
V5Y Protective Moldings
Y14 Sold Car (I guess this means someone ordered it, so not for dealer stock)

Thanks for this info, Ben. I am not an expert at decoding so I will let the knowledgeable members chime in. I was interested in the paint code as it is the color my New Yorker is supposed to be.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Taillights No RS Brake Lights/LS Outside BL, Turn signal/Brake light very dim:
Rear Bumper and Valence Remove as Assembly:
Opened trunk. 2 studs from the bumper, on each side, extend through the rear of the body and into the trunk. Remove all 4 nuts, 9/16 long socket, 6 inch extension, 1/2 impact gun

Wire Grommets: one at each corner of the trunk. Blunted large screwdriver, flat blade, push on edges and to start to push through. On the left side, the grommet doesn’t go through very far without hitting the back of the taillight socket housing. On the right side, the grommet does go through the body and into the area between the bumper and the body.

Under Car: there should be 3 bolts through the brackets on each side of the subframe. There should also be 2 bolts on each side through the valence mounts to the subframe at the bottom of the valence. The problem is that all 10 bolts were missing! Shocker, did not expect that. Guess it makes the bumper easier to remove.

We pulled the bumper straight back and placed on cardboard

Taillight housings: Remove Screws. Note: the right side connectors allow the right side taillight housing to be removed separately from the wires. The left side has no connectors between the wiring harness and the taillight housing so these need to be removed as a whole.

Bumper Removed. Bracket Slots Visible.

 

[LocuMob]

That was thorough! I don't even own a 70, but I can appreciate all that detail.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Rear Wiring Harness: Continuity in ohms, Measured on work bench, separated from bumper. 3 bulb sockets/side: O=outside, I=Inside, R=Reverse, Hsg=Housing

· Main Connector, 4-wire: no cross circuit continuity with any of the 4 circuits
· LSO BK Contacts LS .2, RS No, Socket No
· LSO GR Contacts LS No, RS .9, Socket No
· LSO Hsg>Socket LS No, RS No, Socket .1
· LSI BK Contacts LS .1ohms, RS No, Socket No
· LSI GR Contacts LS No, RS .3, Socket No
· LSI Hsg>Socket LS No, RS No, Socket .7
· LSR V Contact .1, Socket No
· LSR Hsg>Socket Contact No, Socket 6.4
· RSR V Contact .1, Socket No
· RSR Hsg>Socket Contact No, Socket .7
· RSI BK Contacts Upper No, Lower .9, Socket No
· RSI BR Contacts Upper .1, Lower No, Socket No
· RSI Hsg>Socket Upper No, Lower No, Socket .1
· RSO BK Contacts LS No, RS .5, Socket No
· RSO GR Contacts LS .4, RS No, Socket No
· RSO Hsg>Socket LS No, RS No, Socket .4
· It looks like there’s no problem with socket housings. Problem probably ground thru bumper. Loose bolts attaching socket housing to bumper and missing bolts at bumper brackets and lower valence. Still, I’m going to pull off all tape, inspect every wire, and replace connections where needed. Someone removed and reinstalled this bumper for a reason. Need to find what he missed.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Dutchman Panel & Rear Defrost
· Examined and took pictures while in trunk. Found surface rust only. Great relief that the area under the rear window is not rusted out.
RS

RS

LS

LS

Taillight Progress Report: there is a short in the intermediate harness between the dash wiring @ kick panel rear harness for taillight assembly. Short between the blue gas gauge wire, the black taillight brake light wire, and the brown right side turn signal wire.
· Left side door sill plate and kick panel already removed. Examined wires back to rear of door frame. No evidence of corrosion, damage, or shorts
· Crawled into trunk and examined wires from back of rear seat to where the blue wire splits off and goes under the spare tire. No evidence of corrosion, damage, or shorts
· Conclusion: the short has to be somewhere under the rear seat or under the rear quarter window panel. Reached end of day, but need to remove both and repair before retest taillight assembly