Bendpak scissor lift anyone use or own?

I figure I'll trip over the arms when I there is not a car in it too

I presume most new ones are like this, but it automatically sets the locks every 6" or so. It made me think oh crap the first time the safety lock slid past the notch and hit the metal with a big pop, then I realized what it was.
 
Weaver® W-10C Overhead 2 Post Car Lift
Not that anyone asked, I am buying this lift. Direct drive cylinders and 10k lb lift load. Anyone care to pick it apart?
I'd be a little nervous about a lift made in China and not because of lost jobs or any such arguments. My concern would be in quality of materials, welds and heat treating wherever if needed. I've had some bad luck with Harbor Freight Chinese tools that at best result in a skinned knuckle when they fail. I witnessed a pretty gruesome injury caused by a foreign made come along failure.
 
I figure I'll trip over the arms when I there is not a car in it too

I presume most new ones are like this, but it automatically sets the locks every 6" or so. It made me think oh crap the first time the safety lock slid past the notch and hit the metal with a big pop, then I realized what it was.
Because the banging of the safety is annoying, you will start just holding the locks released going up... every 6 inches is plenty... they are mostly there in case of a hydraulic failure. All the parts that seem scary at first are not the real killers.

Watch carefully for any creep or looseness at the bolts... sign that your floor anchors aren't.

Never let the wheels touch the floor again once lifted. Your RWD will move itself off the pads eventually if you do this.

If something you're working with starts to fall, try to get out of the way... even a starter is going to hurt, and there is very little you can catch.

If you are really insecure about not being on the locks, bring it to the lock, and then put the pressure back on the hydraulics... locks are almost always secondary safety devices.
 
I'd be a little nervous about a lift made in China and not because of lost jobs or any such arguments. My concern would be in quality of materials, welds and heat treating wherever if needed. I've had some bad luck with Harbor Freight Chinese tools that at best result in a skinned knuckle when they fail. I witnessed a pretty gruesome injury caused by a foreign made come along failure.

I hear you there. The lift I'm looking at is certified, hopefully that weeds out the real junk. I found quite a few of the lifts are relabled China stuff, some junk, some not.
 
I figure I'll trip over the arms when I there is not a car in it too

I presume most new ones are like this, but it automatically sets the locks every 6" or so. It made me think oh crap the first time the safety lock slid past the notch and hit the metal with a big pop, then I realized what it was.

Looks good! I think a pic of your car on the lift would be appropriate.
 
then put the pressure back on the hydraulics... locks are almost always secondary safety devices.
I beg to differ sir... the locks are fully mechanical. Putting the weight of a 4 or 5k car on hydraulics, puts an enormous amount of strain on the entire system needlessly. Raise the car and let it come back down on the MECHANICAL locks. I have worked a lot with hydraulic cylinders, hoses, and have seen them fail with terrible consequences! Hoses can burst, valve bodies pop off, not to mention the strain on the cups and o-rings in the cylinders. Never hold the locks off when going up! The "Annoying" clicks of the locks mean they doing their job, put up with it. Crazy things can happen with hydraulics. I was jacking up one my drill rigs one time, and a hose fitting let go.. the rig, weighing about 8 ton at the rear dropped about 2 feet to the ground on the one side, BANG, just like that,had a 35 foot derrick, with drill rods sticking up to 30 feet above that....not a good situation. Everyone RAN like school girls except the operator...ME, who stayed the course and reacted quickly and balanced it out,covered with hot hydraulic oil, in my eyes, everywhere! Can't imagine being under a car when something goes wrong!
 
I need a lift too. That is why I have read this entire thread which is fantastic. I've got a building perfect for a lift with 3 10' roll up doors and a breezeway through the middle like old barns. The breezeway has a 25' ceiling. My wife got to it first though. I can't leave a disabled vehicle on a lift during business hours. We make candles in this building. I'm beginning to think a 4-post on wheels or a the original scissor might be best. It isn't easy to decide but I do like Stan's setup a lot. Would you feel confident having employee's walk under a C body on a 2 post lift?
 
It is officially installed. I did a dry run no leaks ran perfectly. I will put a car on it later and get it adjusted.
looks very familiar. mine is almost 18 years old now and has been a real workhorse. i didn't care for the hydraulic hose under the floor plate so substituted steel line. do alot of cutting and welding and imagined a piece of slag in the wrong place would be bad. the safetys that keep the arms from swinging out never saw the light of day. raise the lift to position it for a truck frame and the safetys keep the arms from swinging. no. have had mason dumps, crew cabs, never a problem. use tripod stands at each end of long chassis stuff for safety. congrats man. hope this inspires others to do the same thing.
 
I need a lift too. That is why I have read this entire thread which is fantastic. I've got a building perfect for a lift with 3 10' roll up doors and a breezeway through the middle like old barns. The breezeway has a 25' ceiling. My wife got to it first though. I can't leave a disabled vehicle on a lift during business hours. We make candles in this building. I'm beginning to think a 4-post on wheels or a the original scissor might be best. It isn't easy to decide but I do like Stan's setup a lot. Would you feel confident having employee's walk under a C body on a 2 post lift?

With your space you have more options than I have. It is a very heavy duty lift I will have no problem walking under it with my 300 on top. I think there is a video on there site, which is on you tube, that compares it to other lifts
 
I remember those toe tap locks on the floor when the lifts were a single hydraulic cylinder set into the ground.
 
Would you feel confident having employee's walk under a C body on a 2 post lift?

Not unless they are midgets. The tires on a c-body hang pretty low unless you get a real tall lift. I lift one of my cars with the highest extensions that came with it, I then can drive two of my smaller cars right under it and store them all winter long. 3 cars where I could normally store 1. You just don't want anyone hitting their heads on a tire.
I debated hard, over whether to get a four post or two post. I decided on the two post. Takes up a lot less room. I'd be tripping over those huge long rails when not in use. As far as a mobile one, I'd be a little skeptical about putting a c-body on one of those. Our cars seem to heavy for that. Maybe a miata or something small it might be ok.but not an imperial. IMHO.
 
I don't have any intentions of storing my 300 on the lift. With my 10 foot ceilings I will be rolling around on a work chair to work on the car.
 
I beg to differ sir... the locks are fully mechanical. Putting the weight of a 4 or 5k car on hydraulics, puts an enormous amount of strain on the entire system needlessly. Raise the car and let it come back down on the MECHANICAL locks. I have worked a lot with hydraulic cylinders, hoses, and have seen them fail with terrible consequences! Hoses can burst, valve bodies pop off, not to mention the strain on the cups and o-rings in the cylinders. Never hold the locks off when going up! The "Annoying" clicks of the locks mean they doing their job, put up with it. Crazy things can happen with hydraulics. I was jacking up one my drill rigs one time, and a hose fitting let go.. the rig, weighing about 8 ton at the rear dropped about 2 feet to the ground on the one side, BANG, just like that,had a 35 foot derrick, with drill rods sticking up to 30 feet above that....not a good situation. Everyone RAN like school girls except the operator...ME, who stayed the course and reacted quickly and balanced it out,covered with hot hydraulic oil, in my eyes, everywhere! Can't imagine being under a car when something goes wrong!

IMO it depends on the lift. Lift designed with parking/storage in mind seem to have beefy lock mechanisms. I have seen too many that the one bolt that is holding the lock in place seems really small for the job of full time weight, and a few that the lock itself was just a chunk of steel with poor engagement. I think we could find some that are really inadequate and others that would be easy to trust... IIRC I think the one I hated the most used one 7/16 bolt through a 1" piece of mild steel cut to a wedge and the lock engagement was only the last inch or less of the wedge. I bet you guys using hydraulic equipment in the field saw some pretty scary stuff go wrong, but most of that equipment was much higher pressures than an automotive lift and with the equalizer cables if one cylinder fails the other would/should keep the car level as it comes down, hopefully to the locks. The worst lift I worked with was still better than the best floor jack. Even a 7k lbs lift is going to handle a 4-5k lbs car pretty well.

Has anybody used a truck/bus lift like this?
st1082fwa_schoolbus_1.jpg

Those intimidate me just a little, but my neighbor, who is a retired utility co tech, says he loved them. Some designs have interconnecting hoses to raise level, but if you had one lock fail... I could see this getting ugly quick. Thats like 6 NYB's in weight empty.
 
IMO it depends on the lift. Lift designed with parking/storage in mind seem to have beefy lock mechanisms. I have seen too many that the one bolt that is holding the lock in place seems really small for the job of full time weight, and a few that the lock itself was just a chunk of steel with poor engagement. I think we could find some that are really inadequate and others that would be easy to trust... IIRC I think the one I hated the most used one 7/16 bolt through a 1" piece of mild steel cut to a wedge and the lock engagement was only the last inch or less of the wedge. I bet you guys using hydraulic equipment in the field saw some pretty scary stuff go wrong, but most of that equipment was much higher pressures than an automotive lift and with the equalizer cables if one cylinder fails the other would/should keep the car level as it comes down, hopefully to the locks. The worst lift I worked with was still better than the best floor jack. Even a 7k lbs lift is going to handle a 4-5k lbs car pretty well.

Has anybody used a truck/bus lift like this?
st1082fwa_schoolbus_1.jpg

Those intimidate me just a little, but my neighbor, who is a retired utility co tech, says he loved them. Some designs have interconnecting hoses to raise level, but if you had one lock fail... I could see this getting ugly quick. Thats like 6 NYB's in weight empty.
Wow, never seen those. I see a pallet jack arm and no power cords, is that what provides the lift? I have a Yale 35 fork lift we use to move 1 ton pallets of wax but before that we used pallet jacks and a lot of all hands on deck to move them. I had all the cylinders rebuilt on the fork lift rebuilt due to seal failures.
 
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