Bar across the top puts me at ease compared to the others.
Bendpak scissor lift anyone use or own?
- Thread starter Zymurgy
- Start date
I would go with an epoxy anchor. Way stronger, you have 4-5 inches of adhesion and resistance compared to the quick bolts. We use the expoy at work and you would pull the concrete around the whole anchor out before the anchor itself.
I just drilled a 1/4 test whole. I read some where if you concrete is too thin you can cut out a bigger foot print and pour it thicker. I however never confirmed this with Bendpak, since I had 5 inches
I wish I could have talked to you before I set the posts. I bought a tube of concrete epoxy and chickened out using it because I heard it could set up as fast as 30 seconds. I was more concerned about taking my time and getting the post perfectly straight.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
So the Engineering Dept. said 6 and the Marketing Dept. said 4....
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Their attorney would probably say 12 and only installed by a company trained professional 
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
It does say that...Their attorney would probably say... only installed by a company trained professional
Glad no one was hurt. Above ground lifts should have a lock on each arm, I would bet one or more was disabled to allow it to get all the way down... usually they just fold up the bedsides. Dodge dealer I worked for, I had a guy who dropped a Ram about once a month if he needed to or not. They kept him employed to pay off his bodywork tab, I think he had them figured out.The pad was broken on this lift. The weight of the lift gate didn't help.
My son had just walked by (he was a salesman) and his back was turned when it crashed down.
Talent... I'm sure it got hung on something coming down... but thats like clearing a pool table with one shot.I have tried, and tried, and tried, to figure this one out. I can't.
It looks good in their ad... give a real close and critical look at the locking mechanisms... if crap happens, they are what saves you.
As to floor thickness... I have always heard 12"(probably for asymmetrical), but never cared enough to check because I was always in shops meant for lifts. PSI of the concrete would matter too, and reinforcement... A halfassed Florida constructed home garage may crack if you park a car on it... I have actually heard of it several times.
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65Fury440
Senior Member
So the reason for choosing this lift is that it's "Super Symmetrical".Heavy loads are lifted on equal length arms. Lighter loads are lifted unequally. The manufacturer recommended 4" 2500 psi. I poured 2 18x18x12 deep piers @ 3500 fiber reinforced. I will be lifting 9k lb trucks. The waiting is driving me crazy.
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I saw that "super symmetrical" bit... sounds neat, but I haven't ever worked with one quite like it. Zymurgy's open top lift is meant for low ceilings or tall vans... It will most likely be an awesome lift. I like the variety of adapters yours has. Lets be serious... a lift is a super useful tool for working on cars. The detail items are important, but you should be safe working with any of them. IF something isn't right... dont use it until you get it fixed. The locking devices are mostly going to be about when you're not there... and never fully trust anything.
patrick66
Old Man with a Hat
I have tried, and tried, and tried, to figure this one out. I can't.
My brother worked at a Chevy dealer in Denver in the mid-'80s. One of the line mechanics had a '74 Chevy Impala station wagon on a similar lift. It had been up there for about two hours or so; in the meantime, a vendor delivered two 55-gallon barrels of 10W-30 motor oil, and sat them toward the rear of the car while it was elevated. The mechanic did not know the vendor set the barrels there, plus he was at lunch...You guessed it - the car slid off the driver's side pads and fell upside down on the two full oil barrels, which of course, split wide open and 110 gallons of fresh oil got everywhere! The roof of the wagon was severely damaged and the interior was full of oil. The customer had just walked in the service department to check on his car when it happened. IIRC, the service manager got fired, the mechanic got in a shitload of trouble because he did not have the car on the rack correctly, and the vendor employee got fired by his boss for leaving the barrels in the wrong place. The customer got a two-year-old used car from the dealership as a result, as compensation for the loss of his ten-year-old wagon.
65Fury440
Senior Member
The lift has good reviews.
I'll be the first to say, i'm not a pro when it comes to lifts. I do know, when this lift gets installed, it will be a game changer.
I work on cars all day long. Not having ants and sand up my *** is a welcome scene, almost a fantasy come true.
One fire ant bite in the right place... you dont care what it costs anymore...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
I took some time and read everything on the site. That thing is a brute. Makes me afraid to even use mine now...
Never dropped one myself... Seen it too many times and I had a lot of times I didnt like the way it sat and redid the pads/positions... The really tough ones were stepped frames/out of balance like pick ups and some vans... dumbass stuff like aerostar fuel tanks that wrapped the frame right where you needed to be... and undercoating... nothing like a thick slick material with no structural integrity between the load and lift... undercoatings caused a lot of falls...
I wouldn't feel too bad. I think yours is solid, wish I had it. I would like to check this out someday... but live, the brochure doesn't hold much weight with me. You let it rest on the locks when you store on it... they better be a solid design. I am too tall, the lift would get worked off the locks at max height for me... but they better engage if the hydraulics fail.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
The lock refuses to engage automatically on my right post.
I have fiddled with it endlessly. It's simply a poor design.
I have to trip it manually as it goes by an inspection hole on the way up.
I use it very infrequently in the 10 years I have had it.
So far, I have had to send both cylinders out for new seals and replaced the motor and pump assembly.
People say "10 years, you're lucky". And I say, Yah, but I'm not a dealership's service dept. either..
I have fiddled with it endlessly. It's simply a poor design.
I have to trip it manually as it goes by an inspection hole on the way up.
I use it very infrequently in the 10 years I have had it.
So far, I have had to send both cylinders out for new seals and replaced the motor and pump assembly.
People say "10 years, you're lucky". And I say, Yah, but I'm not a dealership's service dept. either..
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I had/have a set of 4 lifts that used to be set 90 degrees different than they are now. We lost a little storage space, but made a much better flowing shop. Point is the floors aren't level and in their old position they had a side load... we F-ed around with them endlessly adjusting cables and such... once moved to the level location and a manufacturer's recall on plastic sliding blocks they have been rock solid. Now its typical burnt out pumps, switches and occasional seals.
If yours is even a hair out of plumb, it can cause crap like that... but it can be shimmed at the bottom to make it right too... not a hard job... just needs a good "lift man"... almost 15 years since I left Ft Myers... but I might still have a working phone number for someone.
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