70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
......
Fuselage - Drums to Disc Brake Conversion
- Thread starter 70_NPORT
- Start date
That looks 100% correct.
Put that on the spindle without seals and everything should fit correctly.
Now why is the bearing not sitting down in the other? That's the question!
See the difference in heights?
Quite honestly, the top still looks to me like it's in upside down.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Done. Pulled out one of the races that came with the inner bearings that I had put in when I initially started this.....I didn't realize it wasn't needed until after I already had put it in. Good to go.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
After two hours of instructions.... problem solved! 
I figured it was best to have him start from the beginning and text me photos after each step I had him do.
I figured it was best to have him start from the beginning and text me photos after each step I had him do.
- I had him text me photos of the other rotor and its INNER hub to verify whether there was a race installed or not. Once verified I had him place the other spindle on his bench and do a mock-up installation.
- Had him install the INNER Bearing on the spindle to first verify that it slid all the way on and fit securely. 100%
- I then had him install the rotor on the spindle to ensure it too slid on completely to contact the bearing. 100%
- Once the rotor fit properly I had him install the washer, nut, castle nut & cotter key so he could see what a complete install looked like. 100%
- Now that we know 1/2 the parts were correct with proper fitment we moved on to the rotor in question (on the car).
- I had him remove the questionable rotor off the car and swap everything from the mock-up to it - Everything fit perfectly!
- I then had him take the questionable rotor and install it on the mock-up. Rotor would NOT slide all the way down completely.
- Asked him to take the questionable rotor, lay it face down, remove the seal, remove the bearing, wipe off all the grease and lay both rotors side by side and text me a photo.
- I called him back and asked .... what do you see different?
- Hey says, "O-O something doesn't look right"
- After adamantly saying he did not install race upon race.... it ended up he did Big_John LOL!
- Told him to remove the 2nd race and check if the original race was still in good condition. He removed it texted me a photo and all looked good. Called him and asked to run his finger along the surface to see if he could feel any imperfections. NONE!!! No replacement needed..
- Told him to lay the bearing back in the questionable rotor, take the remaining new seal and install everything like the mock-up.
- The next post we should hear is.....
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Good Job Gary!! That was a BIG O-O LOL!!
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Yeh thanks once again Steven (and all)........not doing this drum to disc conversion job ever before I had no clue I wouldn't need the races that came with the bearings...but its all good now. Drivers side should be a breeze now.
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
Thanks to you Gary for paving the road for other first timers & for being the guinea pig of my instructions, I updated the parts list and install steps NOT to include the bearing set (w/races), but rather JUST THE BEARINGS.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
65sporty
Old Man with a Hat
Nice work, the other side will go much better.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Right side: Almost a week.
Left side: 30 minutes. ☺
Plus... I have now seen up close and personal the process of going discs on a Fusie.
This thread is eligible for the Tech Stickies section.
Left side: 30 minutes. ☺
Plus... I have now seen up close and personal the process of going discs on a Fusie.
This thread is eligible for the Tech Stickies section.
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
I wonder if swapping rear to discs wuld be difficult
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Nah...
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Only the right side will be difficult.... 
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Calipers positioned on the pass side!....funny tho...they came with pins but no position clips, just (1) anti-rattle spring per caliper. The mopar action tech guy says these aren't needed (toss em' over your shoulder)...torque the pins down to 35lbs and its done...but the FSM has them illustrated in the factory diagram.
Mopar Action On-line - Tech Archives
Mopar Action On-line - Tech Archives
SF-66TC
Well-Known Member
If you're referring to these clips, they were designed to add tension to the pins so they would not back out, but if R.Ehrenberg says you don't need them you probably don't.
They are available on ebay, but at a premium price since there's only one seller that seems to have them.
1969 70 71 72 73 74 MoPar Caliper HARDWARE PKG Cuda Road Runner 300 Charger R/T
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Yeh, seems like he's saying you don't need them. Just make sure to torque the pins properly.If you're referring to these clips, they were designed to add tension to the pins so they would not back out, but if R.Ehrenberg says you don't need them you probably don't.
They are available on ebay, but at a premium price since there's only one seller that seems to have them.
1969 70 71 72 73 74 MoPar Caliper HARDWARE PKG Cuda Road Runner 300 Charger R/T
Difficult or not, it's not necessary.
Maybe where should it be exactly?
70_NPORT
Well-Known Member
Ya I know...I as only JK'ng
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