Pistons, Rings and Bearings removed!

badvs3vil said:
I ordered a micrometer today and also a dial bore gauge.
Click to expand...
Ah gawd I'm not going to read all through this one again, but you need to order a complete set not just one, get inside one's too. Also some straight bars. Calipers are just for a 'Quicky' measurement.
Learn to use the 'mics' too, there is a certain 'feel' to this, this is basic elementary high school shop learning, you did take shop in high school right?
Find out what you got in your accurate measurements and tell your machinist what you want him to do. Don't rely on the shop they will 'upsell' you for their profit.
But with all that advice (future info for readers thou) I think we are past that.

:rolleyes:
.
 
Block has been decked same reason Chevy guys lose their VIN on the block deck surface. It's not a problem you just need bigger rings. The only issue is normally the piston is smaller than the bore. Bore would be 4.37 and piston would be slightly smaller for skirt clearance. A 4.37 piston in a 4.37 bore is no bueno, zero clearance. Now a worn 4.37 skirt on a 4.38 bore is pretty big but not out too much. Without actually measuring it myself I do not want to tell you what you have.
Decked block is fine, I seriously doubt they decked it enough to make a difference in compression so will not change you build. Not deck very much if remnants of numerals are still present.
 
badvs3vil said:
I went through tons of my pictures and found this one after just returning from the shop. I think the issue is that it had bad stamps. Same goes from where the VIN stamp is, cant read it at all, I wanted to know what car this came out of before it landed in mine.

I guess I could take off the paint right here and try and trace over it and see what I come out with. I just tried over the paint and got nothing.

View attachment 519603
Click to expand...
Well the mystery has been solved. If you notice at the top of the pad, you will see an A. According to the data, that means factory .020 bore. So 4.362. Today I got my dial bore gauge and used my digi calipers to zero out to 4.362 and then checked my bores. All were within 1-2thou of that number.

So all good, crank measured out perfect as well. I was able to get my hands on a set of .020 rings and will have those next week.

This was a really cool test to learn how to measure bores. I know a few people have given me grief over some of my actions, but I wanted to learn.

It also really cool to learn that my engine was not only factory .020 over but also the rods were .010 as well.

Very cool. Also thank you to everyone who has given advise one way or another. :)
 
badvs3vil said:
I went through tons of my pictures and found this one after just returning from the shop. I think the issue is that it had bad stamps. Same goes from where the VIN stamp is, cant read it at all, I wanted to know what car this came out of before it landed in mine.

I guess I could take off the paint right here and try and trace over it and see what I come out with. I just tried over the paint and got nothing.

View attachment 519603
Click to expand...
I don't think it will do any good to take the paint off. I can faintly see 400, but that's all I can see. We also need to know if he measured for cylinder bore taper, which should not have been more than .010 inch.
 
1970FuryConv said:
I don't think it will do any good to take the paint off. I can faintly see 400, but that's all I can see. We also need to know if he measured for cylinder bore taper, which should not have been more than .010 inch.
Click to expand...
He said he did and I did as well. We are all good now. I just finished painting the heads.
 
1647051722243.png
 
badvs3vil said:
Well the mystery has been solved. If you notice at the top of the pad, you will see an A. According to the data, that means factory .020 bore. So 4.362. Today I got my dial bore gauge and used my digi calipers to zero out to 4.362 and then checked my bores. All were within 1-2thou of that number.

So all good, crank measured out perfect as well. I was able to get my hands on a set of .020 rings and will have those next week.

This was a really cool test to learn how to measure bores. I know a few people have given me grief over some of my actions, but I wanted to learn.

It also really cool to learn that my engine was not only factory .020 over but also the rods were .010 as well.

Very cool. Also thank you to everyone who has given advise one way or another. :)
Click to expand...
What data did you use to find out the meaning of the A? thanks, Ben
 
Plastigauge completed. Everything right at .002 I also found where the crank shows that the rods were .010 under.

Assuming my rings show up, I will be building most of this on Saturday.

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20220315_132027.jpg
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20220315_132048.jpg
 
Crank is now installed! It moves so nice and easy. I took video but I don't see a way to upload it here.

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badvs3vil said:
That's the plan to use moly paste on the lobes and bottoms of the lifters and then the red stuff on the cam bearings. Right?
Click to expand...
Correct, carry on.
I'm looking at the pictures wondering what the hell the red thing is on the top side of the motor. Duh, engine stand.
 
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