70NPORT
Old Man with a Hat
So my original throttle rod bracket is too short to reach the new height of my carb. That radius there is impacting the side of the manifold. I thought I saw factory brackets that could accommodate higher rise intakes?
Its too small, Wil. I don'T want to force it or it may strip the bolt....and raising it will not give the manifold bolts enough "meat" to bite into on the manifold itself. Oh yes its definitely worth it.How far off is the bracket Gary .....? Perhaps cut short pieces of tubeing to raise it and add longer bolts....... ? Your next issue could be the accl cable to short. as well as the kick down rod.
"cause & effect ..... chain of events"....! Is it worth all the trouble to have a hign rise manifold over the OEM manifold on a street driver .....? I never thought so.
Dat's what I'm talkin' bout. LOLGrind the radius bigger, the manifold has got to stay.
yeah I've seen them. Seems like they have many different iterations for B.and RB motors. Problem is my knockdown mechanism is not the "3 piece" version. My throttle rod comes.up from the transmission and goes straight to the bracket, there's no "lever" hanging of the back of the valve cover. I did not see application for mine.In all seriousness A R engineering had throttle brackets for aftermarket manifolds.
Grind the radius bigger, the manifold has got to stay.

ground out or open up the radius ..the area of the bracket that impacts the manifold surface.
How does one grind something "bigger"........?
If there is an aftermarket bracket avaliable, that would be the best choice.
It sounds like you have the same kickdown rod that I have. when I changed to the edlebrock carb I had to fab a piece for the carb linkage to obtain the correct length and adjustment. The other option is to extend the length of the rod by welding a section into it.
I'm definitely not.doing any welding b/c a. I don't have equipment, b. I don't know how c. I don't want it to be cheesy looking modification.






I'd rather do the welding thing than go with the cable system. I don't like trashing original parts. Looks like your buddy's rig turned out nicely.This might be one you have to farm out Gary, or learn to weld on lol...
A buddy just recently went through this trouble on his car installing an RPM on his 440. Had to cut, and weld both the linkage, and kickdown rod.
I had an RPM on my old Newport. The previous owner installed spacers, and longer bolts between the factory linkage, and manifold. However, it had a manual valve body in the trans, so no worry for the kickdown cable. Plus with the spacers, it would of thrown it all out of whack, and not lined up with the kickdown. Its a bad pic, but you can see the spacers.
Looks like your gonna have to install a lokar cable, if you don't want to do any welding..
Thx 68'. E bergs setup is sorta like the top pic? Replaces the three piece system which has a pivot on the rear of the valve cover. Mine setup doesn't bottom pic (like Monaco75's)...single throttle rod, no pivot point.
the three piece system which has a pivot on the rear of the valve cover.QUOTE]
That system attaches to the rear of the cylinder head and is called a "bell crank".
Oh,got it. Well,I don't have that one or I could grab a Mancini, Bouchillion, AREngineering replacement piece. I might hit up the shop that did my.heads and see if the guy would be willing to weld.up my.bracket and lengthen my throttle rod. This fix doesn't need to be too.complicated.the three piece system which has a pivot on the rear of the valve cover.QUOTE]
That system attaches to the rear of the cylinder head and is called a "bell crank".