So far as I dig deeper into my 383
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
PontiacJim
Member
"it would peg the speedo in second , yes 120mph , and when i shifted it into drive , it would pick the nose up and take off . never stayed now to the end of drive . but she could roll 140mph plus easily ."
Just wait a minute and let me get my boots on because it is really getting deep.
Just wait a minute and let me get my boots on because it is really getting deep.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
traintech55
Senior Member
I can say with all honesty, (having worked for Chrysler and G.M. ) not in factory trim.So Jimmy. . . I guess yer Pontiac couldn't do that. Huh ?
traintech55
Senior Member
I was lucky in my younger days that my dad was an extreme gear head. The 1966 300 that I learned to drive on would do 120 mph, and still have a lot of gas pedal left.
PontiacJim
Member
"So Jimmy. . . I guess yer Pontiac couldn't do that. Huh ?"
LOL. I don't want to highjack this thread and side track it, but I just did. It's not about Pontiac, Chevy, AMC, or any other make - 140mph plus, stock suspension, no front/rear air dam/spoiler, big frontal grille area, heavy convertible, and oh yea, pick the nose up and go at a 2nd to 3rd shift at 120MPH? Sounds like the car was a contender for Nascar back in the day. Brother's factory '68 Bonneville 400CI/TH400 with 2.56 posi would shift out of 1st @ 75 MPH, down shift into 2nd @ 95 MPH (never maxed it out to 3rd gear) and would hit 125 on the speedo and had more pedal BUT, it got so light at higher speeds it floated dangerously in the corners and 140 MPH would have been a recipe for certain death IF it could have hit it. My built 409/6500 RPM in a 1965 Impala SS, 3.08 posi, M-50 tires, 4-speed, could pull the front wheels. Many high speed runs on the highway back then, but 140 MPH (with more pedal to go) on a straight stretch took several miles too over come the air resistance at those speeds as the tach sloowly crawled up, floated very loosely on the pavement, and a good corner would kill you as you exited the highway into some solid object - and many did lose their cars doing this. 125 MPH? Most V8's will do it. Had my '73 Fury doing 100 just to try it, no problem at that speed or most of the other V8 cars I've owned. 140 MPH and could have gone more............okey dokey. Not another word from me on the subject. LOL
LOL. I don't want to highjack this thread and side track it, but I just did. It's not about Pontiac, Chevy, AMC, or any other make - 140mph plus, stock suspension, no front/rear air dam/spoiler, big frontal grille area, heavy convertible, and oh yea, pick the nose up and go at a 2nd to 3rd shift at 120MPH? Sounds like the car was a contender for Nascar back in the day. Brother's factory '68 Bonneville 400CI/TH400 with 2.56 posi would shift out of 1st @ 75 MPH, down shift into 2nd @ 95 MPH (never maxed it out to 3rd gear) and would hit 125 on the speedo and had more pedal BUT, it got so light at higher speeds it floated dangerously in the corners and 140 MPH would have been a recipe for certain death IF it could have hit it. My built 409/6500 RPM in a 1965 Impala SS, 3.08 posi, M-50 tires, 4-speed, could pull the front wheels. Many high speed runs on the highway back then, but 140 MPH (with more pedal to go) on a straight stretch took several miles too over come the air resistance at those speeds as the tach sloowly crawled up, floated very loosely on the pavement, and a good corner would kill you as you exited the highway into some solid object - and many did lose their cars doing this. 125 MPH? Most V8's will do it. Had my '73 Fury doing 100 just to try it, no problem at that speed or most of the other V8 cars I've owned. 140 MPH and could have gone more............okey dokey. Not another word from me on the subject. LOL
PontiacJim
Member
Did you mean pushrod instead of lifter? When I tear down an engine, I use ziplock bags to put the parts into and tag them for later reassembly, ie intake bolts, water pump bolts, etc.. Saves you some grief later especially if reassembly is done months (or years) later. I also take a lot of photos which can be helpful with things like bracket positioning, wiring, or if something gets installed a certain way.
I know some may laugh bc you wrench all day or have been for years but it's been at least 24 yrs since I've done so. What a feeling to help teach my son as we go along. I so appreciate all the help that I've gotten from you guys. We're down to removing the bolts from the heads which will be this week;) Got the exhaust dropped and I even sprayed liquid wrench to help try and get them a little looser ;) I've forgotten how many bolts there are lol
Hey guys quick question... when I got down to the heads, the oil on the heads and in the (bucket) of the block under the intake and between the heads was dark oil black. If I had a head gasket leak, would i see chocolate color oil? The reason I ask is when I drained the rad the antifreeze was that color and I assumed the engine oil would be the same .
traintech55
Senior Member
Normally yes. Right now you are trying to find where the oil and antifreeze are mixing. Again, take the heads in and have them checked for cracks and warpage. This is cheaper than the engine block. If the heads are good, time to decide on the next engine. At this point find out what the problem is BEFORE you spend a lot of money.
That's the bolt size, the bolt head will take a 3/4" wrench to install or remove. Not sure which you're looking for.
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Check with ARP for your head bolts.
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