So far as I dig deeper into my 383
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
The fuel line rubber looks deteriorated/collapsed.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
I'd put a new rubber line through your sub frame, old stale gas can turn rubber into jello.
Tool for Distributor? If your talking about the large hex on the vacuum advance, means nothing the whole unit comes off the distributor via 2 small screws into side of distributor.
Tool for Distributor? If your talking about the large hex on the vacuum advance, means nothing the whole unit comes off the distributor via 2 small screws into side of distributor.
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Oh wait is that your gloved finger pointing to the heater hose nipple?
If it is, no real need to remove them unless they are corroded through. Then I would get a Oxy/Acel torch with a proper heating tip on the cast iron to free them up. GOOD LUCK kind of thing.
If it is, no real need to remove them unless they are corroded through. Then I would get a Oxy/Acel torch with a proper heating tip on the cast iron to free them up. GOOD LUCK kind of thing.
stubs300
Senior Member
Yes, study everything on both sides, gaskets, as well as the heads and block between cylinders for any type of burn-thru, does it look blown?
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Well their very rarely get removed and it is in the coolant section sooooo...
I appears that with the 2 screwdriver like notches that it would un-screw like a scew, good luck.
Now if you had a special notched like socket that fit tightly over the nipple maybe, but I've never seen one.
Heat up the cast iron red hot and use vice grips, if it's old fragile/corroded, better have a new one to put in, and also chase out the threads (pipe). Use tape or pipe goo on reinstall.
I appears that with the 2 screwdriver like notches that it would un-screw like a scew, good luck.
Now if you had a special notched like socket that fit tightly over the nipple maybe, but I've never seen one.
Heat up the cast iron red hot and use vice grips, if it's old fragile/corroded, better have a new one to put in, and also chase out the threads (pipe). Use tape or pipe goo on reinstall.
Stubs it doesn't look like blown apart but does have some heated brown bubbles tho. Also when I removed the gasket I saw some brown sludge in perfect diameter on the head gasket area that looked just like the antifreeze
For the nipple go easy on the torch. A little heat would help on the casting, but a small pipe wrench (think plumber) may break it loose. If that doesn’t then add a little heat but not red hot.
70bigblockdodge
Old Man with a Hat
Put something across the slots on the top of the nipple. Usually.a really large washer works as.long as it goes down in the slots then turn with large channel locks or vise grips, heat helps a lot. If the nipple is in good shape you can just leave it and turn bolt out behind it and it will push housing away from block, and it goes in first as you put it back on.
Cylinder #2 gasket is failed at bolt hole between two center cylinders, toward the fire ring. Those are not original head gaskets.
Cylinder #2 gasket is failed at bolt hole between two center cylinders, toward the fire ring. Those are not original head gaskets.
70bigblock thanks a lot on the info, well I should thanks to each and everyone of you for helping. So next will be cleaning,scraping and applying new gaskets. Also repainting some of the old stuff and clean up;). Need to fix some of the fuel lines and while I'm at it blow out the fuel line also. Also, what's everyone opinion... while I have it all apart is it worth just replacing the water pump? How long do they last? Is the 30.00 cost worth tearing back into the motor when it goes, or just saving and just replacing while I'm there?
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You are there now. Get it rebuilt or replace. If it goes later it will most likely be when you are on the road at the most un opportune time. Plus if it gets hot enough when it fails you will do more damage.
What's another $30?
Ripinator
Old Man with a Hat
Since we are spending your money, in addition to the water pump, you might as well replace the timing chain and gear too. . .
Jon O.
Well-Known Member
Compared to most people, we're in the "Gallons per mile" category.
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