So far as I dig deeper into my 383

Big john i think I'm passed that point lol. Been kinda learning as I go. I do recall someone saying to do a compression test. As I get deeper I do see that somebody has gone through the motor bc of the aftermarket gaskets. I was reading online and correct me if I'm wrong but I can check the timing chain for stretch but applying 15 foot punds of tq and measuring the amount of stretch? If more than 3/16 it's over do? And I do really appreciate everybody not poking fun of me because I don't know what the heck I'm doing at times or most of the time lol:steering:
 
And I do really appreciate everybody not poking fun of me because I don't know what the heck I'm doing at times or most of the time lol
I used to fear going into an engine, then I did, and realized there aren't that many parts, just be very critical of allowed tolerances when reassembly begins.
 
So when I turn the crankshaft it turns right away with the chain which i assume if the chain was to loose it would lag correct? Also it seems loose as you can see from where the breaker bar is by the chain. Last think, as far as the fuel pump is concern does the metal pin rest on the top handle of the fuel pump?

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Big john i think I'm passed that point lol. Been kinda learning as I go. I do recall someone saying to do a compression test. As I get deeper I do see that somebody has gone through the motor bc of the aftermarket gaskets. I was reading online and correct me if I'm wrong but I can check the timing chain for stretch but applying 15 foot punds of tq and measuring the amount of stretch? If more than 3/16 it's over do? And I do really appreciate everybody not poking fun of me because I don't know what the heck I'm doing at times or most of the time lol:steering:
I don't ever recall anyone here poking fun at someone working on their car, so there's no worry.

My best advice is don't let your enthusiasm for the project get the best of you. Think, diagnose and prioritize before getting the tools out.
 
have you cleaned the tops of the pistons? sometimes pistons for an over bored engine will be stamped. example .030 . that could tell you if someone has machined the bottom end.
 
1970 cat you're say that there are numbers stamped on top of the piston? As far as cleaning all I've done was just spray carb cleaner and wiped them down but I'll have a closer look
 
Your engine has been rebuilt and through a machine shop at some point in its life as it has been bored to .040 over stock.
It may be hard to tell how long ago. If you can feel or see a ridge at the top of your cylinder where the rings stop it has probably been a while since the rebuild. If there is very little to to no ridge it could be a more recent build.
 

Yep, .040"over pistons which would typically mean the engine(or short block) has been rebuilt.

The timing chain has a little play and not being familiar with Mopar engines, can't really comment on it. Sometimes when an engine is rebuilt the main bearing bores are align bored and this can remove some metal and move the crankshaft higher into the block by a few thousands of an inch. This can make a stock replacement chain a little loose. Typically, they do sell chains just a tad bit shorter to compensate for this and makes the chain tighter - but you would have to know that this was done to your engine and measured to see if you needed the shorter chain.

In my opinion, I might replace the chain and gears because they are not too expensive and because so much easier now with the engine opened up. But, if you plan on putting it together as is and going to rebuild it at a later date, the chain is probably good enough for that.
 
As a engine runs the rings on the pistons continue to minutely wear on the cylinder walls. On a fresh build you can run your fingernail from the bottom of th cylinder to the top with out feeling a ridge or small step at the top of the cylinder. If it has run a lot of miles since the rebuild you can probably see the ridge and actually feel it wit your index finger and will catch your fingernail.
 
What do you mean by ridge?
Thanks

Probably talking about the ridge at the top of the cylinder. As the pistons go up and down in the bore, the rings will wear away the cylinder wall and leave a ridge which is where the cylinder does not wear and meets the area where the rings ride and does wear. You can feel it if you run your finger up and down near the top of the cylinder, maybe a 1/2-3/4" inch down in the hole. Depending on how much ridge will tell you how much wear on the cylinders - and condition of your rebuild.
 
So just a stock replacement chain will do then?

Sure. I like a double roller, but these are expensive and not really needed with a stock rebuild. I saw a standard chain on Summit, chain & gears was $28 and some change - plus shipping if the order is under $100. So your local parts store should be an easy source. Just insurance in my book, but again, if the budget is tight, go with what you have until later - I've seen much worse.
 
So him what I have now looks like a double roller correct? Believe it or not nobody has them all special order
 
So him what I have now looks like a double roller correct? Believe it or not nobody has them all special order

I don't think it is, now that I looked at it again. The double roller gears have what appears to be 2 rows of teeth versus one solid tooth all the way across. Here are a couple double roller sets, just click on one and take a look CHRYSLER 6.3L/383 Timing Chain and Gear Sets Double rollers usually seem to hold up better. I pulled my Pontiac 400 apart after 25,000 miles of hard use and I had installed a double roller chain/gears and the chain was just as tight as when I had installed it.

I would think a standard chain/gear set would be easy enough to get locally. I know things like this have to be ordered locally, even for me, but I use Advance Auto and they have a big regional warehouse in town, so they can usually get it for me in a few hours or a day or 2.

If you put together a list of items needed for the rebuild and it goes over $100, I use a lot of Summit parts and they ship for free after $100.
 
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