So far as I dig deeper into my 383
- Thread starter FuryDan66
- Start date
68, I wasn't using a hammer promise. I was taking some tools back out to the garage and got side tracked and must have laid it down I'm getting old lol.. really that's how I was going to remove the lifters lol joking and yes I'll go buy a straight edge lol
68PK21 440.6bbl
Old Man with a Hat
Geeeez your going to have more $$$ into tools than the engine is worth by the time your done.
This one time item (I suspect) is best borrowed, nope scratch that borrowing went out in the 70's. Ya need to find a machinist, talk'em up to come over to have a few beers and check your block. Heck now-a-daze ya might find a cute blonde machinist.
Have ya kid work the Social Media!
This one time item (I suspect) is best borrowed, nope scratch that borrowing went out in the 70's. Ya need to find a machinist, talk'em up to come over to have a few beers and check your block. Heck now-a-daze ya might find a cute blonde machinist.
Have ya kid work the Social Media!
And that was just to prove my point - you need a proper straight edge.
RemCharger
Active Member
Looks like the pistons are flat tops instead of dished 2 bbl pistons.... good deal for you! (rebuilt)
pomonamissel
Senior Member
pontiac-jim would it hard to believe my bud built an 71 sd 455 t/a to race my 70 boss 302 . and could not bet it or out run it either . fact is harder to believe then fiction isn't it . i guess it in the tuning n setup , some guys get it , some never do .
PontiacJim
Member
Why all the trouble trying to measure the block deck? It seems you really do not know if the engine was rebuilt or parts of it were rebuilt. It would be wisest to simply take the engine out and apart and let an engine machine shop do what they do best - hot tank all the parts, magnaflux all the re-usable parts for cracks, inspect for wear using the correct micrometers and dial indicators, and check the bores for roundness, taper, wear, and squareness of the deck surface. You can't do this with a straight edge, feeler gauges, and plasti-gauge disassembling/rebuilding the engine in the frame. Hate to see you throw good money away only to fire it up and have the same problems or worse. Don't do it cheap if you plan to keep the car a long time and drive it regularly. Figure on spending $3-$4,000 to do it right if you have to replace most parts.
Jim I guess you're right 100%. I was kinda thinking the something. Well in that case it will be about 5/6 months before that happens. I'm planning on going through the gas tank ,fuel line electric and small rust on the body
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Takes all the fun out of half-assing it! It is the proper thing to do, but sometimes we can't always do proper. I rebuilt half a 440, new rings and bearings to get the car back on the road. Should have done he other half too, but it probably wouldn't have mattered, as a rod broke on the untouched side and was already doomed. Having another 440 ready to go was why I cheaper out, and I got all of my driving season in that year. After having swapped in 3 engines after yanking the original, I will be having fresh builds from here on out.
traintech55
Senior Member
Some of us here need to remember that not ALL the members have the same deep pockets. Each of us has to RESPECT the decisions that each of us make concerning our own cars. Just because your opinion works for you, does not mean it is going to work for everyone.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
Read my first sentence, that's how I've learned. I don't have deep pockets at all, I usually have about $300 in my bank account. If I need or want something, I put my mind to it, sign up for overtime and work to get the needed money. Just because I say I'm going to go the proper rebuild route, in no means I'm going to stick a ton of money into the engine. I give myself a ballpark of $4k, high to some, but it gives me plenty of room to "upgrade" certain areas/parts. I've also only come to this conclusion late last year when trying to figure out how to get a 440 into my truck. I've just gotten sick of getting a used engine and having to replace it. Then do it again. Cheaper to find a used engine and swap it than to rebuild. But it gets old. And I'd like to know I can have something with a little more oomph than what I've got, and it will last a lot longer.
I have no problem doing shade tree mechanics, it's all I know. And I'm not telling Dan what to do, only agreeing with Jim on the best possible method to ensure a reliable and worry free engine.
And I respect whatever Dan does, I've been there too.
Yeah I figure maybe pull some OT over the next several months bc I would really like to not go through pulling everything and rebuilding the bottom in any time soon. It does suck bc summer coming , but I really love this car and so does my son. Be a good lesson that you can't always have what you want when you want it especially with tbis current generation of me me kids you know. Plus I'll work on going through all the wiring and I have a few rust spots. I figure I'll learn some body stuff and sand and prime this area so there's still a lot to do in the mean time, heck might even find a rebuilt from a shop 440 for less
Thanks guys
Thanks guys
traintech55
Senior Member
And so have I. No disrespect intended.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
We're good Bill. I know what you meant.
LocuMob
Fluid Technician with a hat
That's clean!
PontiacJim
Member
I read all the following posts after this, so just using this to reply. I too have done the "get by" thing most of my car life. Never had much money as a young married adolescent with my car hobby and its how I learned to fix my cars - junk yard parts, trading, and bandaides. Used to use a borrowed tri-pod and chain hoist to pull engines, laid on the ground in all kinds of weather changing out bad transmissions with a "good" one, and did my share of clutch replacements. Got so good at a few things doing it over and over that I had all the tools in the trunk and the "spare" parts I knew I needed. LOL
Then with 2 ex-wives & child supports, a bankruptcy I had to pay off, and just trying to keep up with living expenses, shade tree mechanics really becomes an art and I drove some heaps! LOL Has taken me over 25 years to bounce back and I'm now 59. Yep, you can certainly wing it and it may be the best you can do on a budget as I was all to familiar in doing that with the beaters I often drove. But if it is not a primary car you have to drive everyday to get to work or the store, it would be far better to save up and do it right the first time even if it turns into a 5-10 year project.
I learned trying to rebuild/restore your car while you drive it as a daily vehicle is a near impossibility - its like a cat chasing its own tale. Doing bandaide repairs are just that and become very frustrating as you really want to drive the car "now" and it is either breaking down at the worst times or you are using up a lot of your free/family time keeping it running until it breaks down again with some other needed fix. Wives and girlfriends don't seem to have a lot of patience when it comes to walking home or calling family/friends to pick you up because the car broke again. Had one girlfriend who refused to be seen in two of the cars I owned so we always took her Eddie Bower Explorer, and another told me I had to sell my Dodge K-car and get a newer/better one because she didn't really want to ride in the old thing. LOL
The prices to rebuild these cars are not like days of our youth and you can't go and get a low mileage junk yard engine from a 4-door for $150 anymore. Even I have had to bite my lip at some of the bills I have received in presently rebuilding my Lemans. LOL But, I accept it will be a 5-7 year build, it costs what it costs and I am honest with myself with these costs because I want to build it my way and build it right, and it'll be a "toy" for weekend cruises and car shows that will hopefully last until I can't drive anymore or gasoline goes out of style.
So if rebuilding the block in the frame, cleaning it up, honing cylinders, re-installing original parts with new bearings, rings, and gaskets is the best you can do - been there done that on a couple cars myself to keep them going - but you need all the equipment/tools which is an investment unto itself.
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