1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

[1970FuryConv]

Freeze plug repair (cont)
Flex Plate (bolt heads don't match)

The Culprit

Trans on floor (little greasy)

Leaker Removed. Right side wasn't bad. Left side had big glob of rust behind it.

Removed rear freeze plugs on side of block. More rust. Deposits at lowest point, farthest from water pump

After some clean out
Right: side of block

Right rear of block

Left rear of block

Left side of block

 

[68PK21 440.6bbl]

Yea you got the culprit on the LR Back there, IIRC the side fronts are a PITA cuz of motor mount.

Are you going to send the tranny out for a rebuild?

(Edit) are you going to attempt the Freeze Plugs in the heads?

 

[Wollfen]

Gosh, you are getting stuck into it, Glad to hear you are back on the road to recovery again., take it easy man.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Yea you got the culprit on the LR Back there, IIRC the side fronts are a PITA cuz of motor mount.
Are you going to send the tranny out for a rebuild?
(Edit) are you going to attempt the Freeze Plugs in the heads?

I agree about the side fronts. Those and the heads are going to have to wait. They don't look too bad. Those lower rear freeze plugs get rust particles in back and weather damage in front. Hope the others will be OK for a while.

The trans shifts perfectly going forward, but makes a little whine in reverse. I'm not going to worry about it. I've rebuilt a 727 before, but not with Lyme arthritis. The car is going back together as is. It needs to get out of my garage and be driven.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Gosh, you are getting stuck into it, Glad to hear you are back on the road to recovery again., take it easy man.

Hope you're doing OK.

 

[1970FuryConv]

· 240 Grit SP: clean out each FP opening
· Brass Freeze Plug Left Rear & Right Rear, side of block: wipe mounting area with clean white rag. Coat mounting surface with Permatex #2 Non-Hardening Form-A-Gasket Sealant. Then coated the mounting surface of the Dorman 1635C Brass Freeze Plug (mount on left side) with the same sealant. (I used Dorman HPX Pilot Seal brass freeze plugs from an old kit for the other 3 replacements. Seals with an outer rib, instead of whole side of freeze plug, Don’t like these as much) I used two ½” extensions, 10” & 6” long (15” total length), duct tape over extension end, and NAPA 48 ounce sledge with Proto 2314-4 driver to drive freeze plugs in, impacts outer lip of the freeze plug. I stopped when the front of the driver was flush with the side of the block.
Left side. Someone already replaced the center freeze plug

Right side

Brass Freeze Plugs, Left Rear and Right Rear @ rear of block: same process except ½” extension, 3” to drive freeze plug into block.

Left side rear, Looks like it was seeping for a while.

Right rear: rib below freeze plug opening interfered with with proto driver and outer edge of freeze plug being totally flush with block. Used 2” square piece of metal laid flat against edge of freeze plug to hammer flush.

Tool Kit, plus a few 1/2" extensions. Family Dollar Oven Cleaner to remove Permatex #2 from tools

 

[1970FuryConv]

Cooling Sys passed Stant Pressure test with just air pumped into sys. Applied soapy water & No bubbles at new freeze plugs.
Trans Ug: clean up started

 

[1970FuryConv]

Trans: less slime

Left Side

Bent Front Cooling Line Fitting is on bottom in Pic. Reason for greasy left side. I replaced with a spare straight fitting

Right side

Trans x-mbr

With Paint

Dipstick gets Red Devil Silver paint

Other parts get paint

Cooling lines

Someone had cut front outlet line but not flanged the cut. I double flanged both ends. Just showing difference. Expect Cure for big puddles under cooling lines. No rust holes in either line.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Trans reinstall

x-mbr

Trans mount & x-mbr

Time for Filter Change

Trans Pan after clean up. More silver paint

Other side

Valve Body

NAPA 1-7957 Filter Kit

Dipstick Tube: NAPA 1-3901 o-ring and gray Permatex

Pan Installed 150"lbs, Torque Converter to Flex Plate 270"lbs

 

[1970FuryConv]

All you can see from up top

 

[73 T&C]

Did you change out the seal for the gear shift? Also did you adjust the bands while you had it opened up???

Sorry if above is too late.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Did you change out the seal for the gear shift? Also did you adjust the bands while you had it opened up??? Sorry if above is too late.

I did not adjust the bands. I thought of adjusting the rear band, but I didn’t have the appropriate tooling. I tried getting my 11/16 wrench on the nut, while holding the adjuster with a 5/16 wrench, but I just couldn’t get the 11/16 wrench onto the nut because of the way the lever was shaped. I really hadn’t had any shifting issues as far as major clunks or looseness. I also found that the movement at the tip of the low-reverse lever was 5/16 inch to 3/8 inch off the servo, which is about right. So long and the short, I decided not to go out and buy the appropriate tooling to change the band adjustments, since I wasn’t having any issues with shifting into low or reverse or hard upshifts.

I have to admit I didn’t think to change the seal on the gear shift. I hope that the major portion of the grease buildup was coming from the bent front cooling line fitting, leaks where the cooling line was cut and not flanged, the dipstick tube O-ring seal leaking, and the trans pan leaking. Cheers, Ben

 

[73 T&C]

No worries Ben.

Just trying to be helpful. Hopefully the tranny had been done recently (judging by the reverse band play) and they changed the seal. If you have to go in for that, at least you won’t have to drop the tranny.

Keeping my fingers crossed for you.

Great work so far.... pleasure to watch your progress.

Javier.

 

[1970FuryConv]

No worries Ben.
Just trying to be helpful. Hopefully the tranny had been done recently (judging by the reverse band play) and they changed the seal. If you have to go in for that, at least you won’t have to drop the tranny. Keeping my fingers crossed for you.Great work so far.... pleasure to watch your progress.
Javier.

hi Javier. I hope I don’t have to adjust the bands either. Do you have a picture of the appropriate tool? I managed to do the adjust on a 1970 Fury trans with the 2 wrenches. Both trans were 727, but somehow I wasn’t able to get the wrench on this trans. Would be nice to have 11/16 socket, with an outside hex, and a wide internal opening.
Some more progress at front of trans. Driveshaft is in too.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Trans Finale
Shift lever at trans

Cooling lines at shift linkage bracket

Kickdown linkage installed

Cool factory diagram to help us get it right the 1st time

Shift linkage: rod from bracket to lever at trans

PNSS

Cooling Lines at radiator

1st hose I had to replace. Double flared both line ends

2nd hose I had to replace. Double flared both line ends

A last view: Not perfect, but a lot cleaner. No coolant or trans oil leaks on 1st test drive. Shift linkage now properly adjusted, so no noise in reverse. Car shifts well and performs OK. Needs tuning/electronic ignition next. I think after 5 months, I can finally drive the car somewhere for fun.

 

[73 T&C]

We are leading parallel projects. I’m almost there myself. Great to see you beat me to it.

Wonderful job and I love the super clean tranny that only you, your watchers and anyone you happen to run over will ever see!

Javier

 

[1970FuryConv]

We are leading parallel projects. I’m almost there myself. Great to see you beat me to it. Wonderful job and I love the super clean tranny that only you, your watchers and anyone you happen to run over will ever see! Javier

LOL.
What is keeping you from driving the 73 T&C?

 

[1970FuryConv]

6-15-18 Test Drive, 91580 miles
· Radiator full, topped reservoir
· No leaks under car. Big Plus!
· Door locks working
· On my return, the mileage was 91,646 miles. Google maps says the distance from my home to work, one way, is 33.9 miles. Technically starting at 91,580 miles and ending at 91,646 miles puts me 1 – 2 miles short of where I should be, but for a 46-year-old speedometer/odometer, it’s pretty close to right.
· Acceleration was okay, but could be better. The engine didn’t miss or bog on acceleration. Cruise was excellent. I drove the car for several miles at about 72 mph without any trouble.
· Suspension was surprisingly good. The car floated less than I thought it would have.
· Steering was straight and there was no evidence of misalignment.
· I had on a pair of off-white khakis. They had some black dots on to the inside lower portion of each pants leg after the drive to work. I found a drilled a hole, probably for a choke cable, above and to the left of the accelerator pedal. I think debris might’ve been accumulated in that hole. Either that, or it was accumulated in the heat vent system, but I had that system turned off and it ends to the right of the accelerator pedal. It should have the sprayed on to the outside right pants leg. The good news is that I ran a 3/8 thread bolt, flat washers, and a nut to plug the hole so nothing can come through it now. Also, no stains on the carpet or seat. Interesting that nothing came through and stained the pants further on the way home. It was only on the way there that this problem occurred.
· I got compliments on the car from 4 or 5 people at work. One lady wants to take pictures with it. The car had a great reception. And people like the color. One lady even texted one of her coworkers, who had the day off, to tell him that he was missing seeing my 1972 Fury. Overall it was a feel-good day.

 

[1970FuryConv]

2nd Test Drive
· Speedometer Cable, removed from electronic speedometer adapter, using 1 inch wrench. Adapter: removed at transmission housing, using a rag to insulate the connector from my channel locks. Speedometer Cable: installed on transmission housing, using 1 inch wrench.
· I drove the car again to work. Starting mileage 91646. The mileage on my return home was 91,713 miles. The Google mileage to work is between 67 and 68 miles. The mileage on the odometer for the trip without the adapter is 67 miles. The adapter is unnecessary. Recycle bin.
· Bonus: Without the adapter, the speedometer needle was more steady.
· Cooling System: I drove home with the temperature of 91°F outside. Another positive is that the car did not overheat. 22"Radiator, no shroud.
WITH ELECTRIC SPEEDO ADAPTER

WITHOUT

 

[LocuMob]

Was the adapter an aftermarket item, and what was its intended purpose?