The hose is way too short. You need a longer hose.
I guaranty you the tubing is going to rupture right here:
Isn't the hose suppose to mount to the area of the arrow?
ECI c - body brake kit
- Thread starter saylor
- Start date
Isn't the hose suppose to mount to the area of the arrow?
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
YES! That hose is too short. It won't work unless you want to use the truck in front of you as a stopping method.
Good thin he posted pictures.
Good thin he posted pictures.
That could of been disastrous or even fatal.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Even if it's only for a clutch...
saylor
Senior Member
thanks all - but im not sure how to attack it then. is making a mount good enough? whats the plan here. The brake lines were/are too short to reach the stock location from caliper to frame. where the little C clip thing is. or is supposed to be. i thought i could just extend the lines.... i dont wanna die ! let me know a better plan and ill throw money at it
saylor
Senior Member
if i move the mount to the other side of the upper arm, it may fit. does the mount have to be on the frame? im going to have to make the hole if this would work.
saylor
Senior Member
allright i took off a mount, and i guess there is some hydraulic pressures going on at this location ?? not only is it threaded into the frame, it has a tab on it that sits in another hole in the frame... figures.
well, thanks for not letting me die. Im trying not to die.
i guess tomorrows project is going to be rerouting lines to the rear side of the upper arms, drilling new mounts for these brackets, etc.
id just go buy hoses, but these are the ECI chevy brake calipers with 1980~ camaro hoses, so i really dont have any idea what would fit/reach the stock location. and i have to cross all the arms and spindle and assorted moving parts.. the frame brake line mounts are front of the arms and the caliper is to the rear of the arms...
well, thanks for not letting me die. Im trying not to die.
i guess tomorrows project is going to be rerouting lines to the rear side of the upper arms, drilling new mounts for these brackets, etc.
id just go buy hoses, but these are the ECI chevy brake calipers with 1980~ camaro hoses, so i really dont have any idea what would fit/reach the stock location. and i have to cross all the arms and spindle and assorted moving parts.. the frame brake line mounts are front of the arms and the caliper is to the rear of the arms...
Take pictures again after you make the corrections so we can take a look again. Also have someone turn the steering wheel all the way left and right after you fix it to make sure it doesn't rub or bind anywhere. Please do this to both on the left and right sides.
saylor
Senior Member
OK. Trying not to die. Re located entire mount to other side of upper arm. The stock location is in front of the arm. when it only had drum brakes, the connection at the wheel is in the middle, so it was no big deal. with the ECI kit / with calipers, the calipers are at the rear of the wheel well, and the stock mount is at the front.And the attachment point of the flex hose to the caliper is on the bottom half of the caliper.
So I moved the mounting bracket to the rear of the upper arm, massaged the steel line into place, drilled 1/4 hole, and threaded in the bolt. Then used the mounting bracket tab to guage the position of the hole for it, and drilled another hole.
I even have the little clip things back on there. This should be good to go. The flex hose no longer has to cross over anything. This picture is at full stop turned outbound on the wheel. If this is no good, im going to use a leather strop and wood stick to stop...
1966newport
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Jan 20, 2012
- Messages
- 905
- Reaction score
- 219
looks good to me
saylor
Senior Member
here is the bracket and retainer. and the tube bender - lowes 15 bucks get some. the connection on the flex hose that goes from your caliper/drum to frame fits into these little notches, push it thru and then clip it on bottom with the retainer. retainer fits into a notch on the hose connection.
Last edited:
that looks good, you should be fine and stop no problem going forward. It is amazing when you can post pictures and people on this! forum are smart enough to spot problems. Great job everyone, we don't realize it but someone might have saved someones life
saylor
Senior Member
thanks! for those who are going to read this later - yes the bracket had to go into the frame. it needs to be sturdy. no you cant just take off a body panel bolt and stick it there. drill the holes. use the retainers. love it.
BillGrissom
Active Member
Excellent and very useful post. Some issues mentioned:
1. The hoses might route better per factory design, with the brake hose coming up from the bottom into the frame bracket. Search for photos.
2. Which master cylinder you use is a personal choice. Your original drum-drum would actually work. A smaller bore makes an easier pedal but more travel. You don't want to risk bottoming out and disk calipers require more volume than drum cylinders. According to rockauto, my 65 Newport used a 1" bore for either manual or power brakes. They don't say if disk or drum. With 1-1/8" bore, you might need both feet to lock up the wheels with front disks if you lose the boost. The main difference is that disk MC's have a larger reservoir for the front disks (on aft end). I prefer the later 2-bolt aluminum MC's (see my recent post).
3. You do need a proportioning valve in series with the rear brake tube. The Summit one you show is fine. I bought others recently for ~$25 on ebay. You should mount it after your distribution/imbalance warning block, even though down in the mud. Adjust it so the fronts barely lock up first on a wet parking lot (use a helper). Without it, your rears will lock first which can make you spin out. Watch George Clooney do that on purpose using the parking brake in the movie The American.
4. The rubber bushing shown is usually only for manual MC's. Most say it keeps the rod from coming out, but I don't see how that could happen. I suspect it just stops rattling noise. The pedal rod on my 65 w/ power brakes has a groove on the end, but I found no rubber. Perhaps it was the same PN for manual brakes.
5. Below is a rockauto photo of a Midland-Ross booster. I have 2 and they look the same. I wondered what the white plastic trapezoid was for. I see no filter, but perhaps it fell out. I don't think air flows into the booster from the engine compartment, but it does slosh in and out as it moves. The vent is on the cabin side. When the pedal moves in, it opens a valve to leak air into the cabin side which pushes the piston forward into the MC. The spring in the MC returns it. That is my understanding how it works. I prefer the Midland-Ross booster since easy to take apart, though you won't find parts to rebuild one.
1. The hoses might route better per factory design, with the brake hose coming up from the bottom into the frame bracket. Search for photos.
2. Which master cylinder you use is a personal choice. Your original drum-drum would actually work. A smaller bore makes an easier pedal but more travel. You don't want to risk bottoming out and disk calipers require more volume than drum cylinders. According to rockauto, my 65 Newport used a 1" bore for either manual or power brakes. They don't say if disk or drum. With 1-1/8" bore, you might need both feet to lock up the wheels with front disks if you lose the boost. The main difference is that disk MC's have a larger reservoir for the front disks (on aft end). I prefer the later 2-bolt aluminum MC's (see my recent post).
3. You do need a proportioning valve in series with the rear brake tube. The Summit one you show is fine. I bought others recently for ~$25 on ebay. You should mount it after your distribution/imbalance warning block, even though down in the mud. Adjust it so the fronts barely lock up first on a wet parking lot (use a helper). Without it, your rears will lock first which can make you spin out. Watch George Clooney do that on purpose using the parking brake in the movie The American.
4. The rubber bushing shown is usually only for manual MC's. Most say it keeps the rod from coming out, but I don't see how that could happen. I suspect it just stops rattling noise. The pedal rod on my 65 w/ power brakes has a groove on the end, but I found no rubber. Perhaps it was the same PN for manual brakes.
5. Below is a rockauto photo of a Midland-Ross booster. I have 2 and they look the same. I wondered what the white plastic trapezoid was for. I see no filter, but perhaps it fell out. I don't think air flows into the booster from the engine compartment, but it does slosh in and out as it moves. The vent is on the cabin side. When the pedal moves in, it opens a valve to leak air into the cabin side which pushes the piston forward into the MC. The spring in the MC returns it. That is my understanding how it works. I prefer the Midland-Ross booster since easy to take apart, though you won't find parts to rebuild one.
Mr C
Senior Member
Good job keeping a C body guy safe, Commando!
buicker
New Member
I just installed a m/c booster kit on my 65 fury(wasn't power brake) kept drum brake since new ball joint were installed lately and and didn't want to convert to disk at the time.
I installed a kit for 1967 to have double m/c. (safety fisrt)
After instalation when I connected the vacuum hose the pedal went to the floor aplying the bake. To solve that problem I attached a spring on the brake pedal to pull it back up. It work fine, but something tell's me that I shouldn't need that spring.
Does anybody know anything about this issue?
I installed a kit for 1967 to have double m/c. (safety fisrt)
After instalation when I connected the vacuum hose the pedal went to the floor aplying the bake. To solve that problem I attached a spring on the brake pedal to pull it back up. It work fine, but something tell's me that I shouldn't need that spring.
Does anybody know anything about this issue?
saylor
Senior Member
good stuff forum people! i have no one to talk with locally, so y'all are all my mechanic buddies here online in the forum 
1 1/32 booster piston on this MC i got on the car now. i THINK that matches the OEM drum power booster piston bore.
Can we keep buicker ^^ from dying too ?
1 1/32 booster piston on this MC i got on the car now. i THINK that matches the OEM drum power booster piston bore.
Can we keep buicker ^^ from dying too ?
Must have safe brakes and steering to have fun with these classics.
commando1
Old Man with a Hat
Nobody dies on my watch.
Last edited:
saylor
Senior Member
Sir! Does the mounting job pass muster, sir!
. . .i saw something last night online (in an olds forum? i think) that said brake line clearance is mandatory, but keep in mind that to get teh wheel into its current position, you have to be off the gound and wheel turned to lock.... if you did this while actually operating the vechicle (not up on stands) you would probably be about to die anyway.
But - this way - i have utmost confidence in knowing that if i should become airborne with the wheel turned all the way to lock, my brakes will not fail at the junction
. . .i saw something last night online (in an olds forum? i think) that said brake line clearance is mandatory, but keep in mind that to get teh wheel into its current position, you have to be off the gound and wheel turned to lock.... if you did this while actually operating the vechicle (not up on stands) you would probably be about to die anyway.
But - this way - i have utmost confidence in knowing that if i should become airborne with the wheel turned all the way to lock, my brakes will not fail at the junction
Similar threads
