Help me spend some $$

this may be a dumb question.. But do small block, and big block heads share the same valve springs?

I've got a set of mopar performance .509 springs I picked up for the 360 that is currently in the car.. Would these work on the 346 heads on the 440? they seem to be the same height as the ones on them right now.. However the ones on are obviously compressed down, still installed.

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Good question, I don't know but that would be a good one to google.
 
Good question, I don't know but that would be a good one to google.

Never did find anything about the valve springs interchanging. Gonna go with the new springs comp calls for to be safe anywhase. Want to replace all the valvetrain, so might as well.

Got to talk to Mike (Newp) over the phone tonight. Thank you again Mike for the great adive! Really appreciate it! We talked a bit about the thermoquad. Deff gonna keep it, just need to decide if I'm going to stick with the one that came with the engine, or get another one. Here is the numbers that are on it Mike.
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9097s. After looking up the numbers, seems to have come from a '76 318/400/440. Not sure yet on rebuilding this one. May try to get an earlier one.. What do you guys think?

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After looking up the numbers, seems to have come from a '76 318/400/440. Not sure yet on rebuilding this one. May try to get an earlier one.. What do you guys think?
It's one of the best ones. Go with it.
 
Picked up a valve spring compressor today.

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Had a little free time this afternoon, so took the right side head off. Got an empty box, and made out a template to store the parts in. Granted most of this stuff is getting replaced, still wanna keep it in order for the time being. Bolts will probably be reused.

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The inside-
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The outer 2 cylinders have a little surface rust towards the top
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The numbers on the top of the pistons read-
350P-.040
03-044-89-C
the part number I have on the receipt that Ross emailed me is-MR-SPP350P40

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Are these .040 over pistons? Wondering if it was a .040 over bore instead of a .030... Also I assume it has an 89cc chamber.

Also did a little more looking into the thermoquad. The primary butterflies are stamped with 2-314 making it an 850cfm carb. Looking good. Thanks stan, I do believe I will stick with this one. I'll get to rebuilding it once the engine is back together.
 
Yeah those would be .040 over bore.
 
Thanks Matt, thats what I figured. Just like to get a 2nd opinion. Im wondering how far i sjould tear this motor apart... You think these cylinders are alright to go, or should I hone em out?

Im also thinking of taking the intake, heads, and water pump housing to a machine shop to be hot tanked. Not sure yet, this budget build is taking a lil more $$ then I was thinking.... Then again whats new....
 
Had A few goodies show up today..

Got a call from a buddy. the trans was finished. Went and bailed it out. All rebuilt, new gaskets, as well as a shift improver kit.


Also came home to a package of new parts.


Spent the night pulling, and cleaning the valves. Everything looks good so far...



 
Sweet. What's your timeline goal for jamming it in the car?

No clue my man.. Whenever everything is ready to drop in. Once the engine is done, bag it up and set it aside. Then need to go through the rear end thats going in. Gather a few more parts (radiator, ect, ect). Once the rear is done, can pull the car in, and pull the small block out along with everything else, and drop the new in. After it is installed, need to get a new driveshaft, along with a new exhaust. Just a matter of when I have spare $$ to play with lol.


My how to rebuild big block book, by Don Taylor came in yesterday. Been doing a lot of reading!
 
My how to rebuild big block book, by Don Taylor came in yesterday. Been doing a lot of reading!
That book is my bible, also.
There's few things he doesn't explain well and you'll hit a HUH? WTF?... Whe you hit one of those stumbling blocks, post it up here and we'll get you through it.
 
Thanks Stan!

It does look like a great book! I read almost every chapter, except the parts interchange one. I'm going to go back over it for sure though.

I did have one WTF moment with it, just like the other books I have.. When cleaning/going through the heads, it says to take a wire brush mounted to a drill to the combustion chamber, to clean them out. I was a little affraid of scratching/gouging something wrong... But I think I've got it good.

After a can of carb cleaner, and a couple wire brushes, the right side head is all cleaned up. Also everything seems to check out to be good to re-use, after going over what is mentioned in the book. So Hopefully she will be back on the block soon.

What I started with


Afterwards






Still a couple small spots to go over, but looking good. All the ports, and water passages look pretty clean, so I don't think they are gonna need a run to the hot tank. But we'll see what happens with the left head..
 
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Another part I didn't see mention in the book (atleast not yet, but don't think is in it). Is painting the engine? How do you guys paint your rebuilt engines? Do you paint each part before placing back on the engine, or do you assemble everything, and then paint? Do you paint with the exhaust manifolds on? How about the fuel pump, and so on? Seems like this engine was painted part by part. The water jackets, and everything on the inside of the motor is red even.. Don't think that is to good.. Dont need flakes of red paint running around on the inside.
Thanks
 
It's entirely personal preference. Makes absolutely no difference.
The anal detail guys :)flirt: ) paint the parts while on the bench and guys with any common sense paint it all bolted up.
Just don't get an paint in holes with threads or on machined surfaces

I like painting it while it's apart only so as to paint different items different colors to make it look more professional.

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It's entirely personal preference. Makes absolutely no difference.
The anal detail guys :)flirt: ) paint the parts while on the bench and guys with any common sense paint it all bolted up.
Just don't get an paint in holes with threads or on machined surfaces

I like painting it while it's apart only so as to paint different items different colors to make it look more professional.

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Oh Mopar ****! That is beautiful!
 
What do you guys think about the old edelbrock CH4B intake? There seems to be quite a following for them. One popped up for sale on another site, and I'm pretty interested in it. But wanted to get some opinions on it before pulling the trigger. I'd love to run an rpm intake, but cant for clearence issues. Also dont see the need for the performer as it is just a copied version of the factory intake. The chb seems to be in between both of them performance wise, and have a low profile. Thanks in advance!
 
If it's cheap, it's OK. Really not much better over the factory manifold. If you already have a factory one, you'll never feel the difference from a seat of the pants point of view. My 2 cents only.
 
For what it's worth.....

PERFORMER® MANIFOLDS (Idle to 5500 rpm)
Performer manifolds are dual-plane, low-rise intake manifolds with a 180° firing order and patented runner design that you won't find in other brands. This patented design greatly improves torque over a wide rpm range for excellent throttle response, especially off-idle through the mid-range. Performers are ideal for passenger cars, trucks, 4x4s, tow vehicles and RVs.

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