So far as I dig deeper into my 383

Ok so I checked one of the cylinder heads (scraped it and cleaned it ) and you could slide a 0.002 down the entire head but you could not pass a 0.008. So the heads I believe from the number stamped are 516? Not sure it's worth taking those heads and redoing them when I could save and just buy new heads? I'll get to the block on Sunday.
 
68, when I got this car the owner couldn't tell me either way on had or hadn't been rebuilt. I took owner ship late Nov of last yr.
 
Well we know the heads have been off before, it is very rare for a Chrysler block to warp badly, I bet the heads were torqued down wrong when they were put back on. If the block checks out well, I would still take the heads to a good shop and have them checked out first. They may still be rebuildable. sometimes trying to find a good core will drive you crazy. And you also want to change to the hardened valve seats if they are not in the heads now.
 
Traintech, wont that put me around the same cost or shy of new heads for around 900.00 or so?
 
Traintech, wont that put me around the same cost or shy of new heads for around 900.00 or so?
NO. If your old heads are not cracked, and not to warped, the cost of a valve job, new guides, and hardened valve seats will be around 1/2 to 2/3 the cost of new ones.
 
Well I'm not looking for a drag car you know and I need to see if the block matches the car and if so that's even a better idea to keep the motor all together you know.
 
This weekend I'll be reading up on how to remove the lower pulley and harmonic balancer;)
 
Don't really need to read up on on pulley & balancer, pretty straight up remove pulley bolts, light tap with hammer made be needed depending on how long it's been on, balancer, big nut, breaker bar or impact wrench your choice, will need a puller to remove, buy, borrow, rent, your choice.
 
Yeah I knew I needed a puller. I believe AutoZone and pep boys rent those out I'll have to check ;)
 
Is my 1966 383 motor a BB "B"? Going to look at part timing chain etc ...
Thanks as always;)
Dan
 
Is my 1966 383 motor a BB "B"? Going to look at part timing chain etc ...
Thanks as always;)
Dan
Remember, all 350. 361, 383, 400 engines are "B" All 413, 426W, 440 are "RB" engines. The distance from crank center-line to cam center-line is the same. When you get your timing gear set be careful of ones with multiple key-ways on the crankshaft gear as it is very easy to time the crank and cam wrong. Use your old gears to help you line up the new ones.
 
Remember, all 350. 361, 383, 400 engines are "B" All 413, 426W, 440 are "RB" engines. The distance from crank center-line to cam center-line is the same. When you get your timing gear set be careful of ones with multiple key-ways on the crankshaft gear as it is very easy to time the crank and cam wrong. Use your old gears to help you line up the new ones.
One caveat, the 383 RB - was a one year only thing, I think in 59, but the fact that it existed still screws up the marketing as they still make parts for it.
 
One caveat, the 383 RB - was a one year only thing, I think in 59, but the fact that it existed still screws up the marketing as they still make parts for it.
I was only 4 years old at the time. I think I could be forgiven for not remembering that one.
 
Ok so the time chain has to be set correct? I was hoping to just slide it on lol. Ok, another YouTube search and Google research haha. Hey I've come along way so far;)
 
You probably won't get one with multiple keyways, but if you do
 
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