1972 Fury III 360 101498 miles

[1970FuryConv]

Yesterday, I attached the bumper, using only the 4 nuts for the impact pad studs, which extend into the trunk. I did that so I could test my lighting repairs and not have to remove a bunch of bolts, if I made a mistake. Since all the lights are working, today, I attached the 4 bracket bolts and the 4 bolts from the bottom of the valence panel to the brackets off the rear of the subframe.
Bracket Bolts: Should have installed the front bolt in the bolt hole at subframe 1st, so the U at the front of the brackets could align on it. Had to remove the 4 nuts in the trunk, pull the entire bumper assembly back about 5 inches, tap 1/2x13 one of the bolt holes and reinstall bumper assmbly.
Bumper Bracket to Sub-Frame Bolts, 1/2x13

The alignment U (The circular hole does not have a matching subframe bolt hole)

LS Bracket Installed

Valence Panel Mounting Brackets had not been used for a long time. Had to tap all 4 bolt holes, 5/16x18 tap

After installing 4 spare bolts from my bolt box

Gap at top of bumper is now much better

Things I learned: the factory body service manual does not give torque specs or good directions for installing a rear bumper. I used 25 foot-pounds on the bumper bracket bolts because my experience is that using 30 foot-pounds or more twists the bumper. I tightened the 4 bolts at the lower edge of the valence panel to just firm, using a 4 inch stub ratchet. In the trunk, for the 4 nuts on the studs from the impact pads, I only tightened the nuts enough to bring the bumper into position. These studs are actually carriage bolts that mount in open sided slots in the back of the bumper brackets. Any serious tightening will spin the square beneath the head of the carriage bolt out of the slot in the bumper.

Side Marker Lights: 3 OK, but one last light problem
Right Rear Side Marker Light: inoperable because of dirt/carbon on the ground side terminal. Electrical cleaner and 400 grit sandpaper to clean. Ground wire had been butchered by previous owner. Installed new ground wire terminal end.

Front Side Marker Lights are really cool on 72 Fury (Rear SM are boring red rectangles)

Love the Light Up Lettering

 

[1970FuryConv]

Key for today: Engine definitely 360, probably original given 5/1972 build date for car, Steering is a little loose because of bad idler arm. Rest of front of car looks OK.
3-15-18 Oil Change, 101503 miles
Lights, OK, Hazzards & 3 Dash Floods, OK
Belts: Look near new, good tightness
Hoses: LRH & URH, HH & Bypass, OK
AF: full at radiator, reservoir much lower, reservoir system working, added over a quart of 50/50 at reservoir
BF: full to top
PSO: OK, above full cold
Air Filter: OK, looks new
WW: OK
Jacked at front of subframe, stands with wooden blocks under subframe to rear of front wheels, lowest stand position, 0 teeth showing above top of each stand
Front Subframe, OK, no rust thru or dents
Engine ID: Casting # 3418496-8-360 on left side, 1-19-72 on RS, Cannot read block ID pad, maybe could see with small mirror
Cooper Trendsetter SE 215-75R15, all 4 tires
Max tire pressure 35psi, door sticker 32, tires cold, tread depth in 32nds of inch
Tread Depth PSI
LFT 9-9-9-9 25>32
LRT 10-9-9-9 26>32
RFT 11-10-10-10 25>32
RRT 10-9-9-9 29>32
Spare 20>32
Front Brakes OK, outside pads and inside pads, look almost new
TRE OK, Pitman Arm OK, but idler arm is bad
Oil Change
· Drain Oil: 7/8ss, 6ext, ½ Ratchet to break pan bolt loose, remove pan bolt by hand, drain into black circular pan
· Oil Drain Plug: reinstall, firm
· Old Filter, Purolator Tech TL30001: Used largest red handle oil filter wrench. Loosen half way by hand, let drain into a pan. Body position: feet toward front of car, chest under filter, right hand around torsion bar. Finish unscrewing and Remove filter over torsion bar, toward inside.
· Filter Mounting surface: clean with rag
· New Oil Filter: Purolator 1, PL30001, 10k mile rating. Bought top quality, because last oil change sticker, due 94205 miles 9-6-17. (probably at 91205 6-6-17). Can’t be 14K miles on oil I drained out, filter not dirty on outside. Need to look at odometer again. Maybe the lead ) is really a 9. Install: Light oil on filter gasket. Install new filter: pass filter over t-bar. Screw on hand tight, then wrap rubber gripper around filter and finish hand tight.
· 5 qts Valvoline 10W40. Advance only had 20W50 in Carquest & Castrol. Besides, I think the engine is rebuilt. Added with radiator funnel. Left on jackstands. Idler arm at center link is totally shot.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Idler Arm
· AutoZone Duralast FA586 order for tomorrow, $38.99, Tariq will call in AM. Pic looks same as Moog
· NAPA only has part in Sacramento and LA $67.99
· Advance is factory direct 3 days Moog $48.99
Gap above center link

Removal
· Wire cutters to remove 1/8 inch cotter pin at center link
· Idler arm nut at center link:, remove, 3/4 inch long socket, gun

· Idler arm stud at center link: hammer upward with God’s hammer. It popped out quickly.
· Wire cutters to remove 1/8 inch cotter pin from castle nut at top of idler arm pivot

Long view

· Idler arm pivot bolt: the bolt extends vertically through the idler arm bushing, where the idler arm turns. The bolt head is below the idler arm, and the castle nut is above the idler arm. To remove: 13/16 long socket and gun on bolt head, 7/8 inch wrench on castle nut. I used the gun and the long socket to turn the bolt so that I could get the circular end of the wrench on the castle nut. Removed nut and bolt
· Idler arm: pulled to the rear. It came out from between the 2 extensions of the bracket that is built into the back of the subframe at the engine. I measured the play of the ball in the socket at the center link. I found that the ball could be pushed 5/16 inch in and out of the socket. Socket completely hollow. That is dangerous.

Play measured on bench 5/16"
Pushed in

Pulled out

If AutoZone keeps its word, I'll install and take it for another test drive tomorrow

 

[Wollfen]

How is the ball joint end of that idler arm? There are bearing kits you can buy to replace the bushing end of the arm, makes for a much more solid setup.

 

[1970FuryConv]

How is the ball joint end of that idler arm? There are bearing kits you can buy to replace the bushing end of the arm, makes for a much more solid setup.

Terrible, totally worn out. I replaced today, see below
Duralast FA586: picked up from AutoZone. Upon examination, what stood out immediately is that the part is Made in USA. I was pleasantly shocked. The part came pre-greased, both at the bushing and ball/socket. The idler arm does not use boots for seals. Instead it uses pieces of foam rubber, or some other synthetic foam material, one at the center link joint, and one above and below the pivot bushing.
Grease Fittings: the unit comes with 2 new grease fittings, which I installed with a 5/16 wrench

Also there is a washer that goes above the idler arm at the pivot at the bracket at the back of the subframe below the engine. There is a 2nd washer that goes below the idler arm at the same place.
I installed it at its pivot. It is tricky and almost impossible to keep the 2 washers and the idler arm aligned as it’s installed. The bolt is 9/16 inch thread width. I happen to have a tire iron, which I had cut off for use as a punch, that has 9/16 diameter, I used that, with a pair of vise grips on the bottom so that I could turn it to get the 2 washers and the idler arm fully aligned within the bracket extensions,

Idler arm: torque@pivot. The FA586 does not come with new bolt, but it does come with new nut. I pushed the bolt up from the bottom until the head was close to seated against the bottom of the bracket. I held the bolt with my right hand, while installing the new nut with my left. I used the circular side of 7/8 inch wrench to hold the nut, while tightening with a 13/16 long socket, ½ inch ratchet. I torqued at 65 foot-pounds using a ½ inch torque wrench.

Torque center link castle nut @ 40'lbs

Test Drive, 16 miles (After greasing the steering linkage and ball joints)
I took the car up to a top speed of 70 miles an hour, because unfortunately our local highways have a speed limit of 60 mph.
Steering was much tighter, without the wandering that I had in the 1st test drive. Steering and Suspension are OK.
Acceleration: at first I felt that light throttle acceleration was a little bit boggy, in that it would pick up for a moment and then acceleration would go flat and that it would pick up again. It wasn’t a heavy bog, however, because the engine never threatened to shut off. At firm medium throttle, acceleration was smooth, with good pickup. I also tried flooring it from 20 miles an hour. The car responded well and went up to 50 miles an hour quickly.
Ignition: the car wasn’t missing, but in listening to the engine, I felt ignition could’ve been stronger. Acceleration and cruise were not quite as smooth as I would’ve liked. I think the problem is that I have a points and condenser distributor in the car. I could really help this engine with electronic ignition.

 

[Wollfen]

Terrible, totally worn out. I replaced today, see below
Duralast FA586: picked up from AutoZone. Upon examination, what stood out immediately is that the part is Made in USA. I was pleasantly shocked. The part came pre-greased, both at the bushing and ball/socket. The idler arm does not use boots for seals. Instead it uses pieces of foam rubber, or some other synthetic foam material, one at the center link joint, and one above and below the pivot bushing.
Grease Fittings: the unit comes with 2 new grease fittings, which I installed with a 5/16 wrench
View attachment 174440
View attachment 174441
Also there is a washer that goes above the idler arm at the pivot at the bracket at the back of the subframe below the engine. There is a 2nd washer that goes below the idler arm at the same place.
I installed it at its pivot. It is tricky and almost impossible to keep the 2 washers and the idler arm aligned as it’s installed. The bolt is 9/16 inch thread width. I happen to have a tire iron, which I had cut off for use as a punch, that has 9/16 diameter, I used that, with a pair of vise grips on the bottom so that I could turn it to get the 2 washers and the idler arm fully aligned within the bracket extensions,
View attachment 174442
Idler arm: torque@pivot. The FA586 does not come with new bolt, but it does come with new nut. I pushed the bolt up from the bottom until the head was close to seated against the bottom of the bracket. I held the bolt with my right hand, while installing the new nut with my left. I used the circular side of 7/8 inch wrench to hold the nut, while tightening with a 13/16 long socket, ½ inch ratchet. I torqued at 65 foot-pounds using a ½ inch torque wrench.
View attachment 174443
View attachment 174444
View attachment 174445
Torque center link castle nut @ 40'lbs
View attachment 174446
Test Drive, 16 miles (After greasing the steering linkage and ball joints)
I took the car up to a top speed of 70 miles an hour, because unfortunately our local highways have a speed limit of 60 mph.
Steering was much tighter, without the wandering that I had in the 1st test drive. Steering and Suspension are OK.
Acceleration: at first I felt that light throttle acceleration was a little bit boggy, in that it would pick up for a moment and then acceleration would go flat and that it would pick up again. It wasn’t a heavy bog, however, because the engine never threatened to shut off. At firm medium throttle, acceleration was smooth, with good pickup. I also tried flooring it from 20 miles an hour. The car responded well and went up to 50 miles an hour quickly.
Ignition: the car wasn’t missing, but in listening to the engine, I felt ignition could’ve been stronger. Acceleration and cruise were not quite as smooth as I would’ve liked. I think the problem is that I have a points and condenser distributor in the car. I could really help this engine with electronic ignition.

Check this electronic conversion kit out and read the spiel. If I was to buy a kit, this would be the one.
MOPAR 318 340 360 HiRev Electronic Ignition Kit Resto OEM Plymouth Dodge Chrys | eBay

 

[1970FuryConv]

Check this electronic conversion kit out and read the spiel. If I was to buy a kit, this would be the one.
MOPAR 318 340 360 HiRev Electronic Ignition Kit Resto OEM Plymouth Dodge Chrys | eBay

Thanks Gary,
Great suggestion! I used to read Mopar Action. I always enjoyed Rick Ehrenberg’s articles, although the rest of the magazine often left a lot to be desired. I believe Harris publications went bankrupt, so I’m happy to see that Rick Ehrenberg is succeeding as an eBay seller. I was considering a DUI distributor system, but Rick’s electronic distributor system is a lot less expensive. I might try it first.

The nice thing is that with all the electrical gremlins worked out (ug, fingers crossed), I can concentrate on developing a baseline performance with the points and condenser distributor and then see where I want to go. This is much more fun than tracking down shorts, discovering malfunctioning electrical components, and constantly re-checking and reconnecting wires. I have now driven the car 21 miles in 2 months of ownership, so I'm only beginning to see what it's doing when operating.

 

[Wollfen]

Time to enjoy it more, something I want to do with the GT this year too.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Under Column Panel, installed today. I know the color is not right, but I have tried 2 different paints. Wanted to see how it fit before I did any more painting.

Vent Cables Fit, LS installed, RS being installed

Although the panel lined up well with the bottom of the dash,

It did not line up well with the bottom of the dash pad. It extended too far upward and didn’t have enough curvature to fit properly at the left side of the instrument panel.

On the right side of the instrument panel, there remains a 1 inch gap between the top of the under column panel and the bottom of the dash pad.

The under column panel does fit well against the right side of the dash.

1972 and 1973 under column panels are supposed to be the same, but there must be some difference. Either that or there is a difference between a 1973 Fury 4-door sedan panel (Gary's Donor Car) and a 1972 Fury 3 coupe panel. Or I could have the wrong dash pad, although rivets look original, so the dash pad is probably 1972. VIN matches fender tag

Spent a lot of time trying to get this panel to align. Painted a kick panel and called it a day.

 

[LocuMob]

The joys of learning how are cars are/act/behave, etc can be fun! I don't think I would be as concerned (but I have a ratty-er car to deal with) a year or two ago, but I'm staring to gather all the "right" parts I need for my interior. And threads like this help.encoirage me to do it with the correct parts as well.

Keep plugging away, you're doing a nice job resurrecting this Fury.

 

[Wollfen]

I can take a pic of the dash pad in my car and then compare, but i think you will find that all dashpads for 72 to 73 are supposed to be the same.
1972/73 Fury and Dodge Dash Pad

 

[1970FuryConv]

I can take a pic of the dash pad in my car and then compare, but i think you will find that all dashpads for 72 to 73 are supposed to be the same.
1972/73 Fury and Dodge Dash Pad

It's hard to say what's going on. My guess is that it's something to do with how the original pad aged.
Doesn't your gold interior Fury have a brown dash pad?

 

[Wollfen]

It's hard to say what's going on. My guess is that it's something to do with how the original pad aged.
Doesn't your gold interior Fury have a brown dash pad?

Best pic i have right now.

 

[1970FuryConv]

My dash pad is a shade darker brown

Did a tie rod end boot on the 70 Fury today.

72 Test Drive: pulling left on hard braking. Suspect RS wheel cylinder. Brake work tomorrow. Detour... interior and ignition will have to wait

 

[1970FuryConv]

Car gets to ride out tomorrow's snow in garage

New master cylinder, overfilled. Someone was having problems b4

Right rear: working hard. Lots of brake dust and even some small pieces from previous shoes. Properly adjusted, but wheel cylinder frozen at rear shoe side. Both wheel cylinders cast# 3461776, original equip

LS rear: not working at all. No brake dust, hardware looks new. Adjusted way too loose. Movement at both shoes, but movement at rear shoe is minimal. Might work OK with proper adjustment

Drums OK
LS Front Brake looks good, but caliper staying partly engaged. Could not retract piston much.

RS side clamps and releases

LS Caliper pins: indents from wear

Need calipers, caliper pins, wheel cylinders

 

[1970FuryConv]

Ordered
Calipers NAPA SE4582 left and SE4583 right, $34.99 each with $8.99 core
· These are painted black, while Advance & AutoZone $29.99 each are not.
· Caliper Pins are included. No need to order separate.
· Calipers are in Washington DC. S/B here by Friday unless snow delay. (It’s snowing today)
· Ordered two NAPA United 37235 wheel cylinders, in stock in store
Hope to fix brakes this weekend

Snow day. We got 4" in VA in March. Global warming? 70 Convertible safe under carport.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Brakes (cont)
Wheel Cylinder, RS.
Turned out NAPA only had 1 wheel cylinder and needed to order the second from the warehouse. Installed RS wheel cylinder after work.
Blocked the pedal forward to prevent the master cylinder from draining out

Leak at rear side of wheel cylinder. This side wasn't moving when I watched as an assistant pressed the brakes, but I couldn't see any leak until I removed rubber end cap.

Great break for the home team. I sprayed the line fitting with carb cleaner twice over the past 2 days. I gave it about 12 raps with a hammer and a flat end punch. Used 3/8 line wrench, and the fitting turned on the line!

New wheel cylinder matches original

NAPA Brake Part# 37235 (This line used to be called United)

Installed

Hope to do LS wheel cylinder after work tomorrow and then calipers over the weekend. Maybe by Sunday. I'll have a car that stops straight.

 

[1970FuryConv]

Installed LS Wheel Cylinder after work
Another NAPA 37235, but this one doesn't have all the cool markings and Made in China is on the box

Picked up the calipers at NAPA. Work on them and bleeding this weekend

 

[1970FuryConv]

Installed Calipers this afternoon, after I took my family to lunch
Removed old calipers. Had to turn front of rotor outward to get clearance to remove from above rotor.
Calipers slide along inside of caliper mounts, so I cleaned the inside of the mounts with die grinder and coarse disc and lubed with Sil-Glide. LS mounts below.

Spun calipers onto hoses with new copper washers. Helped to have wife hold hose fitting with line wrench. LS Installed on mounts

LS & RS calipers are different, so bleeder valve faces up
LS Caliper Pins: Lube pins with Sil-Glide. V-Shape Tensioners go on pin 1st. Push pin thru rubber bushing in caliper, then mount, then inside pad backing plate (used old coathanger in caliper pin hole to lift the pad so caliper pin could pass thru), then outside pad backing plate, and then rubber bushing at outside of caliper. Just a little complexity in getting floating calipers aligned. LS below

1/2 ss and 3/8 stub ratchet to tighten. 3/8 TW @ 25'lbs. I stayed 10 pounds short of 25-35’lbs spec because I was afraid the pin would break (has happened to me once before), also Sil Glide gets on pin threads and lube increases turns before torque spec met.
RS Caliper installed

One of the RS v-shaped tensioner clips broke, but I dutifully bent the other outward and installed it with the caliper pin.

Brake Hose Routing: Hose runs from frame forward of spindle, between back of spindle and rubber bumper at bottom of upper control arm, to caliper. Weird, somehow. Loosen & tighten hose @ caliper, 5/8 line wr.

Sorry that some of the pics are sideways. The site does that when it's slow, I guess due to heavy traffic. Bleed tomorrow. After that, fix a couple more things and another test drive.

 

[Wollfen]

You didn't put new hoses in?